Khao chae: A tasty, refreshing reminder of Thailand’s rich past | The Nation

Khao chae or rice soaked in cool, fragrant water is a dish that dates back several centuries but is still popular in hot summer months.

Legend has it that the recipe first arrived in the royal court during the reign of King Rama IV (1851-1868). It was reportedly introduced to the palace kitchen by the king’s wife Mom Chao Manda Songklin.

Now, the ancient dish is experiencing a revival thanks to trends sparked by lovers of all things retro.

“People who want to consume khao chae are not just looking for something delicious, but also want a peek into the past,” said Jantararat Hemvej from Studio Chan, which specialises in art and craft.

It’s also becoming popular with parents who want their children to learn about Thai culture, she said.

“I believe traditional Thai dishes will exist for as long as new generations are interested,” she said, adding that khao chae is a prime example of the diversity of Thai cuisine.

“Thai cuisine is internationally famous for its unique flavours and aromas, such as massaman curry, green curry, pad thai [stir-fried rice noodles] and pad kraphao [stir-fry with holy basil],” she said.

“If we look at the history of Thai cuisine, we will realise that Thailand is one of the most multicultural nations in the world.”

As for khao chae, Jantararat said consuming it is a unique experience thanks to its explosion of flavours, aroma and beauty.

The rice soaked in flower-scented water is served with a variety of side dishes, which in some cases can expand to as many as 35.

The most common side dishes served with khao chae, however, are luk kapi (deep-fried shrimp paste balls), hom dang yud sai (deep-fried stuffed shallots), prik yuak sord sai (sweet peppers stuffed with seasoned minced pork and shrimp wrapped in crispy egg netting), chai po pad khai (stir-fried sweet radish with egg), moo foi (sweet, crispy pork floss), pla chon hang(caramelised dried fish) and neatly carved fresh fruit and vegetables like green mango, cucumber, krachai (fingerroot) and red chilli.

“There is no fixed menu on what can and cannot be served with khao chae and in what order,” she said. “We just employ our tastes when it comes to consuming the side dishes.”

For instance, she said, fried items can be taken with cucumber, as it cuts the oil, while sweet items can be matched with sour mango.

Diners are also warned against putting anything into their rice as it can result in an unpleasant taste and aroma.

“Thais traditionally consume food with medicinal qualities. That’s why we take som choon [a sweet and sour aromatic dessert] after khao chae,” she said. “Som choon comprises sweet and sour fruits including young ginger in a sweet and salty syrup. This helps relieve thirst and cools down the body, while the syrup and bitter orange peel are refreshing.”

She also recommends that people consume khao chae and som choon in the heat of the afternoon, adding that this meal should be enjoyed with family and friends.

“Serving khao chae also ensures there are no leftovers,” she added.