Faces of Asia: Unity in diversity at Navaratri Festival
In a world where people are sometimes kept apart by their differences, Thailand proudly upholds a heritage of unity and cultural diversity.
The vibrant streets of Bangkok come alive during the Hindu festival of Navaratri, where individuals from all walks of life, regardless of their nationality, culture, faith, or language, join together in celebration.
The intertwining of Hinduism with Buddhism in the beliefs of many Thais has underscored the colourful complexity of the Thai culture tapestry.
Centre of Hindu belief in Bangkok
The renowned Hindu temple, Wat Khaek (Wat Phra Sri Uma Devi), welcomes visitors year-round and has a history dating back to the fifth reign of the Thai monarchy.
The biggest event of the year is Navaratri festival which, over nine nights and ten days, pays homage to the goddess Durga's triumph over evil. Widely celebrated across India, this festival includes rituals, dance performances, soulful music, fasting, and special culinary delights.
May, a cancer survivor, holds a deep connection with the goddess and attributes her recovery to her benevolence.
“In facing cancer, I chose not to beg or pray. Instead, I embraced the present, keeping a simple rule: let go of anger swiftly, shed as few tears as possible, and limit negative emotions to just 10 seconds. My focus was on positive actions that could uplift others. Over time, I realised that the universe brings people into your life who resonate with your energy. To me, gods and Buddhas may differ in context, but they're one in my heart. So, I made a promise to the divine—if I survived, I would dance in their honour,” May said,
For years, she has graced the festival with traditional Hindu dance performances, expressing her gratitude and unwavering faith in the goddess who, she believes, safeguards her health in the ongoing battle against cancer.
Our journey takes us to Pat, a booth owner at the Navaratri festival. He said that he has strong respect for the Hindu gods in his own way. His dedication to the divine is genuine, but he maintains a balanced attitude, avoiding undue fanaticism. Regardless of his spiritual views, he recognises the need to work and live an ordinary life.
“Our group's perspective is far from extreme. While some may journey to various shrines seeking success, we recognise that divine blessings won't fill our bank accounts if we merely sleep and don't put in the effort. I firmly believe that by adhering to moral values, with God as our guiding light, the gods will illuminate our path,” said Pat.
Just across from Wat Khaek, a humble local restaurant has been serving authentic Thai cuisine for 26 years. Its owner, Pang, a single mother of two, initially knew little about Hindu deities but viewed the restaurant's location in front of Wat Khaek as serendipitous.
She firmly believes that divine guidance has led to her continued success, even during the pandemic.
The mouthwatering dishes at Pang's restaurant have drawn acclaim from both locals and tourists. The restaurant's speciality, Massaman curry, is heralded as the best in town.
Pang said that her restaurant's main clients are devotees of Wat Khaek.
“During the workweek, it's the local working crowd, but on weekends, approximately 80% of our customers are individuals who come to the temple for worship. It's a mutual relationship; they know that after their spiritual visit to Wat Khaek, a satisfying meal at our restaurant awaits them just across the road, said Pang.
Ae, the owner of the nearby garland store, is another devotee of the Hindu gods. Her meticulously crafted garlands are in high demand, receiving substantial orders each year.
“I began crafting garlands at 15, and now, at 40, it's been 25 years in this business. When I first started, I had very little, but I firmly believe that I've reached where I am today due to the divine blessings of the gods at Wat Khaek in Silom, Ae said.”
Procession of belief
The pinnacle of the Navaratri festival arrives on the final day, marked by a procession in which the statues of Hindu gods and goddesses are brought outside the temple for worship.
This ritual, held once a year, draws devotees from near and far, including international visitors who come to pay their respects and take part in this sacred tradition.
As evening descends, Pat and his friends gather to decorate their booth, setting the stage for the grand celebration.
Our journey continues as May and her friends prepare for her traditional dance performance, an offering to the deities.
Silom Road, Narathiwat Road, North Sathorn Road, and Surasak Road are closed to accommodate the grand parade, a testament to the importance of Navaratri for Thailand's Hindu population.
Navaratri holds importance for the Hindu population in Thailand due to its cultural and religious significance, providing a sense of unity, an opportunity for spiritual renewal, and a means to preserve traditions in a minority context. This celebration also promotes diversity and contributes to Thailand's rich cultural tapestry.
Another essential part of the festival is the "coconut breaking" ceremony.
This ritual takes place during the procession of the 5th chariot, bearing the deities Goddess Uma Devi, Goddess Mahalakshmi, and Goddess Mahasaraswati.
Coconuts, regarded as sacred offerings, symbolise purity. Breaking them represents a symbolic act of offering oneself to the divine, cleansing negativity as the chariot of the goddesses passes by. This ceremony sees enthusiastic participation from many attendees.
As the coconuts are broken, the path is purified with coconut water, a process that often extends well into the night with active involvement from the community.
This celebration is an incredible event that underlines Thailand's welcoming nature, where individuals of various origins may find a place to call their own. It also reflects the mix of colours that make Thailand vibrant.
