Praying for a brighter future

Hidden among the skyscrapers and bustling marketplaces and malls, Bangkok has plenty of Chinese shrines to discover, from award-winning shrines that make a strong architectural statement to a Monkey King Shrine that fits well with the upcoming Chinese New Year. A good way of celebrating and welcoming the Year of Monkey is to visit – or revisit – some of the city’s best-loved Chinese shrines. 

You don’t have to be religious or even superstitious to visit these sanctums. Some are worth admiring for their beautiful architecture and cultural significance. Listen to the chants and urban legends. Watch the performing ancient rituals and get giddy on the aromatic wafts of incense. Every one has a story to tell.

In keeping with the number most favoured by the Chinese, we look at eight shrines in Bangkok that are well worth seeing before the Monkey leaps into action. 

 

Thapthim Shrine, Pahurat

Known as Chao Mae Thabthim (Goddess of Water) among the Chinese-speaking community, this is one of the most respected Chinese deities. Thabthim is native to an island in the South China Sea and the seafarers who braved the big waves as they sailed their large junks to Thailand very much counted on Chao Mae Thabthim’s power. Shrines to her can be found in several Chinese communities, but the most visited is in Pahurat, Bangkok’s “Little India” right next-door to Chinatown. This Chinese shrine provided a “safe house” for people in the neighbourhood during the 1940s when Bangkok was bombed by the Allies. The Chao Mae Thabthim Shrine draws thousands of people during the Chinese New Year.

WHERE: Corner of Chakphet and Tri Phet Roads, Chinatown

 

Wat Mangkon Kamalawat 

Also known as Wat Leng Noei Yi, this temple was established in 1871 for Mahayana Buddhists in Siam. Wat Mangkon Kamalawat is the largest and most important Chinese temple in Bangkok. Incense and the sounds of chanting dominate the prayer hall, especially during the Chinese New Year. Tea and fruit are offered to gods and deities as worshippers brave the clouds of incense to kneel and pray for a good and peaceful year ahead. 

WHERE: Corner of Chareon Krung and Mangon Roads, Chinatown

 

Kuan Yin Shrine (Thian Fa Foundation), Yaowarat

This Chinese shrine is part of the Thian Fa traditional Chinese medical hospital. True to its name, Kuan Yin Shrine is dedicated to the Chinese Goddess Kuan Yin – the Mother of Mercy. The hospital was established in 1902 by Chinese immigrants to serve the destitute, a function it continues to this day. The shrine houses a statue of the Goddess Kuan Yin statue that is said to be carved from teak and believed to be more than 800 years old. The shrine always draws people to pray for a healthy life during the Chinese New Year.

WHERE: Corner of Yaowarat 5 Alley and Yaowarat Road

 

Guan Yu Shrine, Khlong San, Thon Buri

Guan Yu – the red-faced, bearded Chinese deity – was a well-known warrior and is known to Thais for his leading role in the “Romance of the Three Kingdom” novel. Described as a criminal who fled his home to join the militia, he is loved by both the lawful and the lawless, who admire his brave and honest character. There are several shrines to him but the oldest is nestled along the Chao Phraya River on the Thon Buri side and is 280 years old. Three statues of Guan Yu preside over Chao Phraya River from inside the shrine’s red chamber, The smallest statue is believed to have been brought from Fujian in Southern China, while the two others were contributed by Qing emperors.

WHERE: Take the ferry from Si Phraya to Khlong San then a tuk-tuk for the short ride to the shrine.

 

Kian Un Keng Shrine, Thon Buri bank of the Chao Phraya

Looking out over the Chao Phraya River and next door to Wat Kalayanamitr, the Kian Un Keng Shrine is one of the oldest of its kind in Bangkok. The shrine was founded and rebuilt more than 200 years ago. Rustic and beautiful, the shrine draws visitors to pay respects to the Goddess Kuan Yin as well as to admire its magnificent wood carvings. Built by the Hokkien Chinese, who followed King Taksin the Great to the new capital city in Thon Buri, the shrine makes a strong statement about the craftsmanship of that era.

WHERE: A ferry runs between Pak Klong Talad and Wat Kalayanamitr.

 

Guan Yu Shrine, Yaowarat

Unlike the famous Guan Yu Shrine along the Chao Phraya River, this shrine is smaller though the intensity of the incense cloud tends to be greater. Hidden behind the Old Market of Yaowarat, this shrine was erected to honour both Guan Yu and his horse, Red Hare. A magnificent mount, Red Hare was said to be strong and capable of travelling 200 kilometres a day. Devotees visit the shrine once in a while to pray for strength. 

WHERE: Corner of Soi Yaowarat 11 and Soi Yaowa Phanich

 

Lao Pun Tao Kong, Yaowarat

Easy walking distance from Ratchawong Pier to the corner of Song Wat and Yaowa Phanit roads, the shrine was established by the Chinese immigrants who disembarked from their junks during the reign of King Rama III of Siam to house and honour traditional Chinese deities. Lao Pun Tao Kong – a kind of “chief of staff” of local deities – is enshrined here. The shrine is said to be especially good for those who want their prayers answered and devout worshippers flock here to pay their respects all year round – and especially during Chinese New Year – to reflect on their sins. 

WHERE: Soi Rong Khom off Song Wat Road

 

Sun Wukong Shrine, Wat Traimit, Yaowarat

A trip to Chinese shines over the Chinese New Year cannot be completed without a visit to a monkey shrine. Located in the backyard of Wat Traimit – where Chinese tourists come to see the Golden Buddha – is Sun Wukong Shrine. Sun Wukong is a main character in the classical novel “Journey to West”. Also known as the Monkey King, Sun Wukong accompanied the monk Xuanzang on a journey to retrieve Buddhist sutras from India. 

WHERE: Corner of Chareon Krung Road and Kalantan Alley