Ghostly goings-on in Loei

AFTER FLOODING caused by the run-off from the Mekong River put a damper on festivities last year, the northeast province of Loei has sprung back to life, with Dan Sai district all ready to host its annual Bun Luang or “Bun Pawet” and the famous Phi Ta Khon Festival in a week-long celebration that gets underway this weekend.
This year, the unique celebration featuring colourful processions and villagers wearing ghost masks, kicks off at Wat Phon Chai on Saturday and runs through Monday then moves to Wat Sri Phum on June 27-28, Wat Sri Sa Ard, on June 30 and Wat Pho Sri on July 1.

The annual Phi Ta Khon Festival returns to Dan Sai district of Loei province this weekend.

“Phi Ta Khon in Nam Thang and Na Vieng still maintains the traditional masks and procession, but Phi Ta Khon in Na Vieng is now different, having switched to a night parade,” says Witut Suwankoed, Na Viang Yai’s village headman.
“It isn’t scary at you might imagine a night event to be but rather it provides plenty of photographic opportunities. Three prizes are handed out for the winning images of Phi Ta Khon in Na Vieng.”
Four temples in Dan Sai abide by the traditions of the Phi Ta Khon Festival, but only Wat Phon Chai has been promoted over the years and today draws Thai and foreign tourists in their thousands. That fame has come at the cost of the other temples in the area but this could be about to change, as Si Song Rak mayor Waythin Phienwittaya, who performed Phi Ta Khon since he was a child, has been working hard to restore the cultural heritage for the two temples in his sub-district, Wat Sri Sa Ard and Wat Pho Sri, for a few years.
“Phi Ta Khon Festival at Wat Phon Chai is the only venue that’s been heavily promoted. The other three temples join the celebration of Phi Ta Khon Festival but without support from either the public or private sector. The villagers help each other to produce the Phi Ta Khon masks from the original materials and organise the festival by themselves without any promotion. So, the festivals at these three temples don’t attract the interest of tourists even though they deserve to.

“Most tourists only know Phi Ta Khon Festival at Wat Phon Chai. That’s why I’ve attempted to restore the Phi Ta Khon tradition at Wat Sri Sa Ard and Wat Pho Sri,” says Waythin.
“The Phi Ta Khon Festival at the four temples isn’t different in terms of the basics – each features two big ghosts and some smaller ones. Phi Ta Khon Yai (big ghosts) consists of male and female spirits with exaggerated sexual organs. The prototypes for Phi Ta Khon Yai were originally made for Wat Phon Chai by auntie Jop Muensom’s ancestors, and she says that if she didn’t continue the tradition, she would fall ill. The pattern of the Phi Ta Khon mask from four temples isn’t different but it has been adjusted to suit modern times and is made with the modern materials. In the two villages under our jurisdiction, we have chosen to maintain the traditional mask made of coconut husks and huad (rice steamer basket handcrafted from bamboo), while the costumes are sewn from recycled jiwon and sabong , the outer and inner robe of a Buddhist monk respectively,” he adds. 

Villagers rehearse for the parade with two Phi Ta Khon Yai.

“This year, the Phi Ta Khon Festival at the other three temples will have a traditional theme. The mask of Phi Ta Khon is separated into three periods. Formerly, the mask was painted using soot only – a dark powdery deposit of unburned fuel residues. Today, it consists of three colours –black, white and red. In modern times, it is more colourful,” says the Na Vieng Yai headman.
The Phi Ta Khon Festival reflects the local Isaan belief in ghosts and spirits. Held once a year, it is part of a grand merit-making festival known as “Bun Luang”. The origins of the Phi Ta Khon Festival can be found in the tale of Lord Buddha’s last great incarnation before attaining Enlightenment. In Buddhist accounts, it is said that when Prince Vessantara, the Buddha’s penultimate incarnation, returned to his city, it was such a joyous occasion that the village spirits came forth to join the welcoming parade.
Two types of “spirits” are featured in the Phi Ta Khon procession, namely the Phi Ta Khon Yai – the supreme Phi Ta Khon, and the Phi Ta Khon Lek", ghosts that are commonly found. For the former, a sacred ritual must be performed to seek the blessings of the supreme powers before work on the Phi Ta Khon Yai masks can be initiated. It is also a task reserved exclusively for the descendants of families in which the tradition of making Phi Ta Khon masks has been practised for several generations.
“Phi Ta Khon Festival takes place before the ninth month of the Buddhist Lent Day,” says Waythin. 

Villagers craft the traditional Phi Ta Khon masks.

“We work with the schools in the areas of our responsibility to teach this tradition to ensure that the next generation will inherit the traditions of Phi Ta Khon.
“During the festival, we will |also encourage agritourism and promote our popular agricultural product, Bong Wan bamboo shoots. We will create dishes made of the bamboo shoots including some desserts where it will replace haew (truffle) in thap thim krob (mock pomegranate seeds in coconut ice syrup).”
As well as the unique masked parade through the town, visitors can enjoy other activities including the Phi Ta Khon mask contest, a junior Phi Ta Khon contest, a recitation of the 13 sermons of Phra Vessandorn (as Prince Vessantara is known to Thais) and exhibition booths from the public and private sectors. There is also a fun food festival and booths selling local products.
And the three other temples in Dan Sai are likely to get a further boost from next year thanks to the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s new “Cool Isaan” campaign, which seeks to promote the traditional way of life in Ban Nam Thang, Ban Nathum, and Ban Na Vieng Yai.