PAPA Isio packs a punch

MOVE OVER Caribbean rum! The Philippines is now enticing sweet-toothed rum drinkers with a premium small-batch sugarcane spirit that is tantalising on its own and a great base for cocktails.
Established in 2011 by Stephen Carroll, a former executive with Remy Cointreau, and Andrew Garcia, who serves as managing director, Don Papa has been gaining a significant following since its launch in the Philippines in July 2012. Made entirely on the sugar island of Negros Occidental – known locally as Sugarlandia – Don Papa is crafted from the finest sugar cane grown on the fertile foothills of Mount Kanlaon, an active volcano, which is then milled to produce sweet, rich molasses. This “black gold” is then distilled before being aged for more than seven years in American oak barrels, then charcoal-filtered and blended. The amber-coloured Don Papa is light and fruity on the nose, smooth and delicate on the palate and has a long, rich-textured finish, offering flavours of vanilla, honey and candied fruits.
The name of the rum was inspired by the story of one of the unsung heroes of the Philippine revolution, Dionisio Magbuelas, better known locally as Papa Isio. Initially a foreman at a sugar plantation, Papa Isio, who was also a healer, a shaman, a rebel and the leader of a group of babaylanes, was the first to fight the Spanish and played a critical part in freeing Negros from Spanish rule, ultimately leading to independence for the country.
“His story is very inspiring and we thought his name represents what we’re trying to do here, to revolutionise the rum industry in the Philippines. Don Papa rum also embodies Papa Isio’s spirit of independence, irreverence and sense of justice,” Garcia tells XP.
“With the Philippines being ranked as the third largest rum market in the world, next to the India and the US, we thought it was time to craft something very special, handcrafted and premium.
A flavourful, tasty crowd-pleasing spirit rather than an aficionado’s choice, Don Papa is pleasant over ice as an aperitif or to sip with a cigar or dessert at the end of a meal. Its fruity nose and caramelised, sweet palate also makes it a decent spirit to build several styles of cocktails. One is the Old Fashioned where the bourbon or whisky can be replaced by Don Papa rum, which is then mixed with brown sugar, bitters and orange rind and topped with a maraschino cherry. The zest of the orange and the tartness of the bitters enhance the rich, fruitiness of the rum, making it a very intense and aromatic Old Fashioned. If you like your drink a bit dryer, lay off the brown sugar or skip it completely.
Another classic that goes rather well with Don Papa is a Negroni. Build up the cocktail with equal part rum, Aperol and vermouth or adjust the proportion to taste then garnish with orange rind to add more fruitiness or opt for a fresh rosemary sprig for more cleansing and refreshing nose.
Unlike vodka and whisky, rum makes a noticeable difference as the base spirit in a cocktail. A classic Dark n’ Stormy can become a little richer, sweeter and more tantalising with Don Papa as its base. Just pour the rum, bitters, lime juice and ginger beer over ice for a very refreshing drink. If you can’t find ginger beer, opt for club soda and fresh ginger instead.
Don Papa currently has two products – its flagship spirit, the 7-year-old, and the limited edition super premium 10 year old. It’s available France, Germany, the UK, Belgium, Italy, Hong Kong, Japan, Singapore and Thailand and be now be purchased at Duty Free shops in the Philippines and Malaysia.