Tasty treats not to be missed in Talat Phlu
A trading centre for Chinese immigrants on the Phra Nakhon side of the Chao Phraya River in the early Rattanakosin period when Bangkok was first established, Sampeng Market is separated by water from Krung Thonburi, another area that also boasts a commercial hub.
Dubbed the Chinatown of Krung Thonburi , Talat Phlu is also home to Chinese immigrants, most of them Teochew Chinese who migrated from the southern part of mainland China.
Talat Phlu translates as betel market and the once-bustling trading hub earned its name from its location which was suitable for growing betel plants during the period when betel chewing was still popular in Thailand.
During the Greater East Asia War in 1942, Field Marshal Plaek Phibunsongkhram’s government forbade betel chewing, resulting in the decline of betel cultivation and trade in Talat Phlu. The introduction of the policy affected growers of betels and forced them to turn their betel plantations into homesteads during the war.
Even though Talat Phlu is not as bustling as in the past, it is much loved as a market along the railway and boasts plenty of tasty local cuisine. Some stores have been in this area for centuries.
The Nation takes this chance to explore the historic market of Talat Phlu by sampling all the local mouth-watering dishes. Here are some of our favourites.
We’ll start with the old lady's fish maw soup. Her store in Talat Phlu has been open for 50 years and her signature dish is different from other fish maw soups thanks to the addition of braised chicken knuckles that melt in the mouth. Foodies should also order a soft drink served in an aluminium bowl, an old Thai tradition for drinking water on a hot day as the aluminium bowl keeps the water colder.
On the bank of Klong Bangkok Yai is Tek Heng’s mee krob or crispy rice noodle, recognised by Michelin Bib Gourmand for three consecutive years. It’s like eating Pad Thai with a crispy texture. Thanks to its complex flavour, this dish, created during the reign of King Rama V, has been a Thai favourite for almost 200 years.
A must-try when visiting Talat Phlu are the steamed chive dumplings. Many shops sell this dish but we recommend the long-haired man's steamed chive dumplings. This store has been in this area for 40 years when dumplings cost less than one baht each, though now they go for 10 baht a piece. This store sells 500 dumplings a day and is usually sold out in 20 minutes. Some customers queue for two hours to buy a box of chive dumplings. Customers are recommended to order in advance.
Thai sweets are a terrific way to finish off a meal. Sarinthip's Thai Crispy Pancake (Kanom Buang) and Talat Phlu dessert shop's Steamed Pandan Layer Cake (Kanom Chan) are both highly rated.
