UNESCO: Kebaya, an intangible cultural heritage

The kebaya, a joint cultural costume of five countries, namely Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand, is to be recognised as an intangible cultural heritage item during the upcoming session of UNESCO's Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage (IGC) in Asunción, Paraguay, under the title “Kebaya: knowledge, skills, tradition, and practices”.

The kebaya, noted for its complex design and elegance, is celebrated as a traditional women’s garment that embodies a rich shared history and cultural heritage. It acts as a bridge between diverse communities and contributes significantly to promoting peace and harmony in the region. Although the kebaya is originally from the neighbouring countries, in Thailand, there are some communities, especially in southern areas, that also share similar cultural costumes or even the nationalities of its next-door nations.

What is the kebaya and where does it come from?

This traditional garment originated in Southeast Asia, particularly in countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei. It is a bodice dress combo, usually made from light fabrics with a tight-fitting top and a long skirt. What makes it stand out are the beautiful designs and decorations on the blouse.

Once exclusively worn by royal families and elites in regions like Java, it has evolved into a garment for special occasions across Southeast Asia. From the elegant Nyonya kebaya to the timeless Javanese style, its charm lies in both its beauty and its deep cultural significance.

The kebaya’s origins trace back to the 15th century in the Majapahit Empire of eastern Java. In the beginning, designed as a tailored blouse worn over the kemban torso wrap, a type of corset, it marked a transition towards modest costume influenced by the spread of Islam. Originally reserved for royalty and aristocracy, by the 17th century, versions tied with peniti (safety pins) became accessible to commoners.

Through trade and diplomatic relationships, the influence of the kebaya extended to regions such as Bali, Malacca, Sulawesi, Sulu, and Mindanao, leading to diverse adaptations that reflect the rich cultural tapestry of the ASEAN region.

The transformation of the kebaya

As trade expanded and cultural exchanges took place, the kebaya began to spread across the region, taking on various styles influenced by local customs, materials, and colonial fashion trends.

Today, the kebaya has evolved into various distinct styles across Southeast Asia, each reflecting the rich cultural identities of its people. In Malaysia and Singapore, the complex beautiful kebaya Nyonya blends Chinese and Malay influences, whilst kebaya Bali is known for its elegant modesty. These variations depict stories of cultural mix and historical progression.

Nowadays, the kebaya’s adaptation leads to changing fashion trends and local preferences have allowed it to remain a relevant and cherished part of SEA clothing, celebrated in both daily life and special ceremonies.
 

Different types of Kebaya

Kebaya Jawa, also known as Javanese Kebaya, is known for its elegant and simple design with a V-neck cut. It can be made from semi-transparent fine fabrics, plain or patterned, with stitching decorations. This type of kebaya can be crafted from materials such as cotton, brocade, silk, and velvet.

Kebaya Nyonya is a unique variation of the traditional kebaya worn by women of the Chinese Peranakan community in SEA. It is portrayed by its tight-fitting, colourful sheer blouse made from voile, adorned with intricately decorated motifs known as sulam. Its style is traditionally paired with a batik sarong and the ensemble is completed with accessories such as a set of interlinked brooches called keronsang or buttons to fasten the blouse at the front.

Kebaya Kartini was popular among aristocrats in 19th-century Java. It is usually made of fine, thick fabrics, often white, covering the hips with minor accessories such as stitching or applied laces. It also has a v-shaped neck and a signature fold on the front to create a slender impression.

Kebaya Panjang, well-known as Kebaya Labuh, is characterised by its long length. “Panjang” means long in Malay and Indonesian, which reflects the defining feature of this outfit. This loose-fitting, long-sleeved tunic, called baju panjang, is usually worn over a batik sarong.

Kebaya Sunda is a traditional kebaya style originating from the Sudanese ethnic of West Java, Indonesia. It stands out with its semi-transparent fabrics, often decorated with floral stitching or embroidery. The absolute uniqueness of this style is its U-shaped neck, featuring broad curves.
Kebaya Bali or Balinese Kebaya shares identical styles with its Javanese counterpart, and this tight-fitting garment is typically made from semi-transparent fabrics like cotton or brocade and adorned with lace. The extraordinary feature of this kebaya style is the addition of a special belt that wraps around the waist.

Kebaya Kutu Baru originated from the centre of Java. This style is similar to the Javanese kebaya but features an additional fabric called “bef” that connects the opening around the chest and belly.
 

Today’s Fashion

Despite its long history, the kebaya remains an alternative fashion today. Thailand, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore share identical cultural costumes, which represents their strong relationship. The kebaya is more than just a traditional garment; it is a symbol of joint cultural heritage and timeless elegance. Many people, especially teens, wear kebaya mixed with modern trousers or even contemporary outfits. Wearing the kebaya does not identify that you are old-school, but rather represents an act of preservation.