BANGKOK gourmets were transported to the farms of Italy’s Rimini province last week as Fabio Rossi of the Michelin-starred restaurant Vite returned to Rossini’s at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit for a feast of authentic Italian fare paired with fine wines from San Patrignano.
Renowned for his extraordinary knowledge of Italian culinary traditions and a “farm to fork” philosophy, Rossi oversees the kitchen of Vite in San Patrignano, where the restaurant is part of the wine brand’s San Patrignano Recovery Community, home to youths who have lost their way to drugs. Founded in 1978, the community is recognised as the best in Europe thanks to its focus on equipping its residents with various occupational skills and trades at no cost.
Vite is a venue for those aspiring to have jobs in hospitality and food industries – whether as cooks, pastry chefs, maitres d’ or sommeliers – with Rossi acting as their mentor. The restaurant emphasises bringing the freshest seasonal produce right from the farm while providing an invaluable professional training opportunity for the young people of the community through internships and exchanges, collaborations with social enterprises and training with local culinary and hospitality schools. It is an extended family that helps the former addicts find a new life made up of self-esteem, dignity, responsibility and enthusiasm.
The menu served in Bangkok showcased Italy’s classic cooking style and started with antipasti “Vite”, a platter of assorted Italian cheeses, served with sparkling Avenir Brut San Patrignano NV whose perfumed, slight green apple hint went well with the mild and creamy cheese. The cleansing, citrusy mouthfeel and minerality also enhanced the savoury tone of the cheeses.
The first course, hazelnut crusted jumbo scallop with watercress cream and sprout salad, was paired with Aulente Bianco San Patrignano 2014. The pale yellow wine with a rounded, flavourful perfume of fresh apple and grapefruit brightened the heavy and somewhat earthy herbaceous dish. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc blend also cut the richness of the scallop, making it a delectable and well-rounded plate.
Avenir marinated duck breast and spiced carrot coulis
Its red counterpart, Aulente Rosso San Patrignano 2014, was poured next to accompany duck breast and spiced carrot with a subtle and sweet hint of ginger. Fruity and floral, the wine’s spiced red plum note went well with red meat and ginger. Its light body and elegant tannins did not overwhelm but instead complemented the complex flavours of the ingredients.
The pre-main course, potato ravioli and free range chicken ragout, was paired with Ino San Patrignano 2015. The slightly sweet, creamy and savoury dish was balanced and toned with the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon blend that has bright, vivacious notes of berries, spices and cinnamon. Also pleasantly light, the wine had an elegant aftertaste with delicate floral notes.
Braised veal cheek with thyme and orange potato cream brought the savoury section of the menu to an end. The rich, heavily seasoned and succulent beef was paired with Ora San Patrignano 2014, made with pure Sangiovese grapes. Enveloping and fresh, aromas of plums, liquorice and wood played along with the richness of the veal and earthy thyme, while the subtle fruity hint went with the tangy, citrus tang in the potato cream. The complex, lingering perfume in the nose and the elegant mouthful really enhanced the dish, making it a very pleasant match. The wine is great on its own, too.
Tiramisu
The meal ended with Chef Fabio’s rich and decadent tiramisu, served in “deconstructed” style.
Designed in the style of a Tuscan villa, the award-winning Italian restaurant, Rossini’s ensures that diners enjoy a unique and memorable dining experience. For more than 20 years the restaurant has championed some of the world’s most accomplished chefs and introduced Bangkok diners to exceptional modern Italian cuisine at its gourmet wine dinners. Diners can also enjoy wines from “primo Vino by Rossini’s”, recipient of the prestigious international “Wine Spectator Award of Excellence” and winner of the coveted “Best International Hotel Wine List”.