China’s northern wonderland

Spectacular scenery and traces of ancient civilisation have made Yulin in China’s northernmost Shaanxi province an alluring destination for lovers of culture and nature. 
A city of more than three million citizens bisected by the Great Wall, Yulin attracts travellers from around the world with its wide range of historical gems. 
Located this far north, the city sees rather long, cold winters amid a monsoon-influenced semi-arid climate. The topography varies remarkably from the northern to the southern parts of the city, with a windswept grass steppe above and a dusty, hilly landscape below. 

The Yulin River, the city’s “mother river”, flows through Red Rock Canyon, forming a series of stunning views that attract local and foreign tourists seeking a tranquil escape from the urban bustle. Photo/Sanka Vidanagama

Just as impressive are the more than 200 lakes dotted around an urban sprawl covering 43,000 square kilometres, flanked on its eastern side by the mighty Yellow River. 
Yulin has witnessed countless glories since its earliest times. During the Eastern Jin Dynasty (371-420 AD) it was probably the capital of the Daxia Kingdom. To this day the area’s abundant natural sources of energy, including gas, oil, coal and other minerals, buttress the city’s economy. 
But visitors are mainly here to see the wealth of historical and natural attractions. 
The Zhenbeitai segment of the Great Wall that divides Yulin west to east is widely regarded as “the heart of the Great Wall of China”. Indeed, the largest watchtower in the entire wall is the Zhenbeitai Tower, built during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 AD), rising four floors and covering 5,056 square metres at the base.
Long ago, Kuangong spread north from the observatory, a city where Ming and Han officials met to trade and pay mutual tribute.
Another of Yulin’s claims to fame – and one with a much longer history – are the 4,000-year-old (early Xia Dynasty) Shimao Relics. Shimao was a lost community unearthed in 1976 in the milky sand that forms a windblown loess plateau of northern Shaanxi. Recognised as a part of the nation’s cultural heritage in 2006, it yielded a trove of important artefacts. 

The Shimao Relics on the edge of northern Shaanxi’s Loess plateau are popular with tourists. Photo/Sanka Vidanagama

Dating back 1,600 years, the Jingbian Tongwancheng City Relics come from a highland site that stretched 2,566 metres easterly and 2,470 metres to the west, the latter extension forming an “inner city” with fortresses and a rectangular brick stylobate – a long base supporting columns. 
Established during the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Tongwancheng is one of the northern China’s oldest capitals, and its treasure comprises the only relics ever discovered of the nomadic Xiongnu people. The government declared the area a national cultural relic-protection site in 1996. 
Apart from its man-made |wonders and fascinating history, Yulin is blessed with picturesque natural scenery that warmly embraces visitors. 
In Longzhou Danxi Landscape Park, endless red-tinted, sandy highlands are topped with a thin layer of greenery, an unusual sight that never fails to captivate photographers and hikers. Exploring the territory, they see rocks in shapes resembling humans and animals. 
It’s believed the rocks – outside the village of Longzhou, 22 kilometres from Jiangbian – were transformed this way naturally through thousands of years of water erosion and the uplifting of the earth’s crust.

Jingbian Tongwancheng City Relics stretch 2,400 metres west, forming a giant fortress that was used to protect the inner city 1,600 years ago. Photo/Sanka Vidanagama

Another photogenic marvel is the 350-metre-long Red Rock Canyon, dubbed one of Yulin’s “eight great scenes”. The crystal-clear Yulin River dances and sparkles through the canyon, which becomes stunningly beautiful in the glow of the sunset. On the wall of the canyon is calligraphy – lines of traditional poetry imbued with the scribes’ vivid emotions. 
With its vast array of interesting places, Yulin easily lures the tourists from near and far, invariably armed with cameras. Their numbers are so great, in fact, that admission to some of the attractions, notably the relic-protection sites, has to be limited. In some cases advance permission is required from the state.
It thus becomes advisable to contact the authorities in charge prior to visiting to avoid disappointment and make sure they’re ready to facilitate you and make the trip all the more pleasant and memorable.