Isaan gets some new threads

 Isaan's woven textiles, part of the renowned cultural heritage of the Northeast, are getting a modern creative boost from enthusiastic younger minds as part of the On Son Lai, Laai Pha Isaan project hosted by the Jim Thompson Farm. It’s another means of ensuring that the craft and the skills involved don’t fade into history. 

Students selected at eight leading universities have learned those skills in 11 northeastern communities and devised new patterns, which were previewed last week ahead of an exhibition at the farm in Nakhon Ratchasima during its annual open house in December, which always draws a lot of visitors. 

“Hand-woven textiles are considered one of the roots of society in Isaan, part of the culture and local wisdom,” said Chutima Dumsuwan of the Thompson organisation. “The practice has to be carried on into future generations, but most of the weavers today are elderly. 

“So the Jim Thompson Farm launched On Son Lai, Laai Pha Isan to preserve those roots. It gives younger people the chance to carry on the tradition by learning directly from the weaving communities. They’re learning about the origins of the patterns and the hand-weaving techniques found in each community, as well as the culture and way of life.”

King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology in Lat Krabang sent two teams of students to Surin, one studying the natural-dyed silk called pha mai yom si thammachat that’s made by the Pha Hol Boran Si Thammachat Baan Natang Group. 

The kids came up with “Drop in the Ocean”, naturally dyed with indigo and gentle to the touch, the traditional silk brocade reworked with a more modern flow in the thread.

The other King Mongkut’s Institute team has found fresh expression for pha mai mudmee lai look kaew, in which the Ruam Palang Pattana Group specialises. It retains the ikat pattern, well regarded for its elaborate beauty, but simplifies it with graphic elements and less bright pastel shades.

Chulalongkorn University students sat in with Satree Thor Pha Kit Mai of the Baan Pho Kham Group in Nong Bua Lamphu to see how pha kit mai is made. Their concept drew inspiration from water reflections and the colourfully lit temple fairs and should add a little Isaan mirth to streetwear for youngsters. 

Rajamangala University of Technology Krungthep re-imagined the pha fai laai khai mod daeng” (red-ant egg) motif by the Wisahakit Chumchon Thor Pha Yom Si Thammachat Nong Bua Daeng Group in Chaiyaphum. They sampled the local dish also called khai mod daeng and decided to enhance the silk’s natural colours with fancy threads to suggest the shine of real ant eggs. 

“Hand-woven textiles are a priceless inheritance and part of the Isaan identity, particularly the designs inherited from our forebears, so that’s worth conserving for future generations,” said Anunya Khaononkok, an award-winning member of the Nong Bua Daeng group. 

She said the weavers were uncertain at first whether they could produce textiles to match the student’ concepts, but old and young exchanged ideas and everyone became inspired. They liked the idea of having both large and small ant eggs in the motif. “So the artisans became open-minded about the suggestions, and we’ll be able to use the patterns in our own commercial productions, 

 making it a more sustainable source of income.”

Kasetsart University scrutinised pha fai yom kram at the Hattakarm Puan Baan Wat Thai Prasit Centre in Nakhon Phanon and used indigo dye mixed with lime water to create an unconventional pattern of freeform shapes in varying sizes. 

The Baan Waeng Group in Buri Ram taught students of Mahasaramkham University about lai barai nam jai waeng and inspired them to combine the classical lai khor and lai dok kaew motifs in a new pattern with a symbolic message. 

Thammasat University visited two groups in Nakhon Ratchasima – Thor Pha Baan Faek and Mae-Baan Wisakakit Chumchon Kumma-u-suanmon. The results were a pha mai mudmee with colours applied in a gradient to realistically portray Mount Khao Yai, and a pha mai laai hang karok reworked with “op art” techniques to create the illusion of extra dimension.

The tortoise known as tao pek is the symbol of Manchakhiri district in Khon Kaen, so the students from Ubon Ratchathani University utilised the pattern on the reptile’s carapace in a rendition of the lai mee kled tao mongkol produced by the Thor Pha Baan Nong Ya Plong Group. The implication is that wearing the pattern offers protection. Certainly the fabric is naturally dyed to safeguard against the health hazards of chemical dyes. 

Other students from URU came up with khong poon moon kram, using a variant on the Satree Sahakorn Baan Pa-ao Group’s pha mai kab bua weaving technique. 

After studying with the Thor Pha Baan Phon Group in Kalasin, youngsters from Khon Kaen University reinvented pha mai prae-wa as “moon mung lam kha praewa Kalasin”, which, like the original pattern, tells of religious beliefs and rituals. The weaving is more modern and the silk really shimmers. 

“On Son Lai, Laai Pha Isaan offered the students an opportunity to learn about the weaving process and the unique materials of Jim Thompson – the different types of silk thread,” noted Pornthip Soonthonnon, the firm’s head of handloom weaving. “The students have shown their ability to select materials and interestingly blend the modern with the original techniques.”

  COUNTRY WAYS

 * The students’ designs will be exhibited during the Jim Thompson Farm Tour in Pak Thong Chai, Nakhon Ratchasima, from December 14 to January 12.