‘Pha khao ma’: the ultimate Thai multi-purpose cloth

It is commonly employed for wrapping items, drying your face, providing shade from the sun, covering tables, and even humorously worn around the neck as a symbol of despair in life.

The term “pha khao ma” is a combination of Thai words, with “pha” meaning cloth, “khao” signifying white, and “ma” referencing a horse. However, pha khao ma is not synonymous with “white horse cloth” or “cloth for a white horse”.

The origin of “khao ma” can be traced back to the Persian term “kamar band,” which translates to “waistband.”

Pha khao ma has been an integral part of Thai culture for centuries, with its roots extending more than 900 years into the past. Originally introduced by the Shan people, it was used to cover their heads, but Thai people ingeniously repurposed it as a waistband for various functions, including wrapping items, using it as a bedsheet, or towel during bathing, wiping away sweat, protecting from rain, shielding from the wind, creating baby cribs, covering the body, and even wearing it at home in lieu of trousers.

Interestingly, the term pha khao ma was not initially used but became a common reference over time.

Characteristics of pha khao ma

Pha khao ma is typically a rectangular piece of fabric, predominantly woven from cotton, although silk may also be used at times. It is characterised by alternating colours arranged in a checkerboard style and is primarily produced in the northern and northeastern regions of Thailand.

The dimensions of pha khao ma can vary in terms of width and length, but most pieces measure approximately 75 cm in width and 125 cm in length.

Pricing varies based on the materials used. Higher-quality silk fabrics can be more expensive and are often reserved for special occasions, typically draped over the shoulder.

While pha khao ma may not have originated in Thailand, it has become an integral part of Thai culture over the centuries and is now considered a symbol of the country. However, concerns about its fading relevance in modern fashion have arisen.

To address this issue, efforts are underway to involve younger generations in designing and incorporating pha khao ma into contemporary fashion, thereby preserving this cultural heritage and creating economic opportunities for local communities.

Thapana Sirivadhanabhakdi, president of Thai Beverage Public Company Limited and chairman of the “Local Pha Khao Ma, Thai Craftsmanship Project” Committee, established the “Thai Heritage Pha Khao Ma - Sustainable Weaving by Heart” project in 2016. This project aims to showcase sustainable success in developing products derived from pha khao ma by local communities. Innovative designs contributed by the new generation through the “Creative Young Designers Project” have played a significant role in achieving this goal.

This project is an integral part of the Sustainability Expo 2023 (SX 2023) being held from September 29 to October 8, at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center. SX 2023 is a sustainable development event in its fourth year, organized on the theme 'Sufficiency for Sustainability.'

As a highlight of the expo, a fashion show titled 'Thai Heritage Pha Khao Ma: Sustainable Weaving by Heart' was presented on October 3.

The Creative Young Designers project, initiated by Thai Beverage and supported by The Department of Community Development, Ministry of Interior, in collaboration with the Education Institute Support Activity network and local communities, aims to develop the livelihoods and income of rural communities while empowering the younger generation.

This collaboration has provided a platform for 18 local communities to showcase their products and has involved design contributions from more than 16 universities, resulting in the distribution of over 235 million baht in income to these communities over the years.

Photos By Thiti Wannamontha