Pilok: playful rain, cheerful mist at Ban E-Tong

As soon as we arrived at Ban E-Tong, a small village in Kanchanaburi province, in the late afternoon, everyone found themselves in a kingdom engulfed by mist. The familiar scenes were almost entirely swallowed up. We willingly stepped out of the car, humbly embracing the clarity of the season.

The journey, more than 300 kilometres from Bangkok, felt longer. Although the M81 motorway has begun trial service, significantly reducing travel time, once we reached Thong Pha Phum district, we still had to drive another 70km up the mountain to Ban E-Tong. The narrow, winding road with 399 curves requires extra caution, especially during the rainy season.

The Story of Pilok Mine

Back in 1940, when the mining industry was flourishing, this village nestled in the mountains near the Thai-Myanmar border was home to a bustling tin mine with hundreds of workers. However, the industry began to decline around 1984-1985.

Today, remnants of the historical Pilok Mine still remain. Our young guide took us to see what life was like at the old Pilok Mine in the past, including the workers' quarters, remnants of vehicles, machinery, and tools.

Nearby, the clear waters of Pilok Waterfall converge into a small pond where koi swim gracefully. In the thick mist and gentle rain, the atmosphere felt particularly peaceful.

Valley of the Mist

During the rainy season, Ban E-Tong transforms into a hidden city shrouded in mist, often going days without any sunlight. In September, a light drizzle tends to fall almost constantly.

The rain in Ban E-Tong has a playful nature, teasing and toying with visitors. Just when you're about to head out, it starts pouring. You could be sitting and eating for a long time, but the moment you leave the restaurant, a heavy downpour begins. It’s a trip where a raincoat or umbrella is essential. One should also be mindful of the slippery roads, stairs, and the ground around the village during this time.

The accommodations in Ban E-Tong are mostly homestays, each with a unique location and appearance. Staying in the central market area is convenient, but for those who choose to stay further out, they’ll enjoy a more intimate connection with nature.

Electricity in Ban E-Tong is limited, with periodic announcements from the village. Some accommodations may have their own generators, while others rely on solar panels. Naturally, there are no air-conditioners, and occasional power outages are common, especially during the rainy season. It’s simply part of life here.

Stay Still and Appreciate Slowly

Upon arriving in Ban E-Tong, simply staying still becomes the ultimate desire for many. Yet it's hard to resist stepping out to appreciate the beautiful surroundings, such as the Pi-Lok Mine Temple located on a low hill in the village, which can be reached by walking up. However, extra caution is needed during the rainy season.

In the mornings and evenings, tourists often take four-wheel-drive vehicles driven by locals to enjoy the view from Battle Elephant Hill. However, when the fog is thick, visibility can be poor. During this trip, we chose to drive up to "Flag Pole Hill", which marks the border between Thailand and Myanmar.

Mor Lok Mor Lak to Jok Kradin Waterfall

About 5km from the village of E-Tong, we parked and walked about 300 metres to admire the beauty of Jok Kradin Waterfall within Thong Pha Phum National Park.

Although the rain showed no signs of stopping, we persevered to witness the seasonal changes. Arriving at Jok Kradin Waterfall, which has just one tier, a large volume of water cascades through the rocks, crashing down and creating a wide mist. Combined with the continuous rain, everyone was soaked despite wearing raincoats, giving us the appearance of being "mor lok mor lak" (wet and muddy).

The wetness soon dried, much like the distance that couldn't hinder the journey. The enveloping mist reinforced the clear image of the tranquil beauty of this valley village.

E-Tong is chilly in the summer, has clear skies in late winter, and during the rainy season, it is refreshingly lush.

It's hard to say which season is the best; all I know is that there's no need for it to be perfect to want to return every season.

Story/Photos by Lanlom