Sugar and spice and all things nice: Thai rum makes a splash

Rum is a distilled spirit renowned worldwide as a premium liquor. Many countries, especially those in the Caribbean, produce rum, contributing to economic growth. The rum made in Thailand, especially by small producers, also supports community products and agricultural resources.

From September 18-27, 2024, I was invited to serve as one of the five judges for the national OTOP (One Tambon One Product) alcoholic beverage competition dubbed “OTOP Product Champion” with the rums in the contest having been preliminarily selected by their respective provinces.

As judges, we assessed OTOP Thai Rum products, where those earning 5 stars rated the highest. These products can display the 5-star label on their bottles, and a grand exhibition and sale of all OTOP products will be held later this year.

An interesting observation this time was the significant increase in rum entries compared to the previous event. Last time, Sangvein Rum from Suphan Buri Province earned 5 stars and went on to earn considerable fame. Another notable entry was Chaiyaphum Rum. This year, rum entries came from several provinces.

Rum is a distilled spirit made from sugar production by-products, particularly molasses, a thick, sweet syrup left after the crystallisation of sugar. Molasses is used in about 90% of rum production due to its low cost, while the remaining 10% is made from fresh sugarcane juice, which is more expensive and of higher quality than molasses-based rum.

Molasses is a thick, dark brown liquid that results from sugar production and can no longer crystallise into sugar. It consists of non-sugar materials dissolved in sugarcane juice, including sucrose, inverted sugar, and chemicals like lime, used to clarify the juice. Molasses has a low to moderate energy level, depending on its water content. It also contains potassium and has a high moisture content, making it prone to mould growth.

Molasses can be classified into several types. Sugarcane molasses is produced during the process of making sugar from sugarcane. This process begins by extracting juice from the cane, filtering out the solids, and boiling the juice until sugar crystals form. The sugar crystals are separated in a centrifuge, and the by-products include sediment, bagasse, and molasses.

In Thailand, the most popular raw material for distillation has long been rice, commonly referred to by locals as lao khao or lao rong (white liquor or industrial liquor). Large companies were granted state concessions, while locals had to resort to producing illicit liquor, known as lao thuen (moonshine). With the advent of the OTOP programme, these moonshine producers could legalise their products, although within certain limits, giving them a chance to stop operating in secrecy.

During the initial phase of legalisation, I had to sample 20-30 local distilled spirits daily for about 10 days, testing products from around 200-300 producers. The quality varied, depending on certain factors among the producers. Today, only about 20-30 entries make it to the final round of national OTOP competitions, though some producers opt-out and sell locally, generating significant income.

Experts have noted that the increasing number of rum producers can be attributed to several factors. For example, rum distilled from sugarcane tends to have a more appealing aroma compared to Lao Khao, which is distilled from rice. Moreover, drinking rum is often seen as more sophisticated than drinking lao khao, even though some lao khao can be of higher quality than rum.

Take Mekhong, for instance. Originally a Thai whisky primarily distilled from rice, it has now been rebranded as rum and is marketed as Thailand’s first spiced rum.

Spiced rum is rum infused with various spices and herbs, such as cinnamon, vanilla, orange, allspice, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, and more.

Thailand cultivates sugarcane in many regions and provinces. When distilled into rum, it produces different aromas and flavours, but it must be made from real sugarcane, not molasses. Molasses, regardless of their source, result in a uniform taste.

Thailand has already produced industrial-scale rum, such as SangSom, which was established in 1977. It was formulated by Jul Kanjanalak from the SangSom distillery in Nakhon Pathom province, marking the origin of SangSom Company Limited.

SangSom is made through a process of fermentation, distillation, and ageing in oak barrels for 3, 5, and 10 years, with the flavour enhanced by a special blend of spices and herbs.

SangSom sells over 70 million litres annually and has won three Golden Awards, first in 1982, then in 1983, and again in 2006. It also won an alcohol competition in Düsseldorf, Germany, in 1983. The product was later renamed SangSom Gold Medal. Today, the brand has evolved significantly both in flavour and packaging.

Rum is a type of distilled liquor that has boosted the economy of many Caribbean nations. It’s a source of pride for the ingenuity of the islanders, comparable to Scotland’s whisky, Mexico’s tequila, and Russia’s vodka.

The origin of rum is recorded in several historical accounts, but the most accepted theory is that it was created by the Indigenous people of the West Indies. Shamans made fruit syrup into alcohol, fermenting and distilling it from sacred water on high mountains to be consumed on special occasions.

Records show that when Christopher Columbus sailed on his second voyage to explore new lands, he and his companions sampled the rum made by the Indigenous people in the Azores and on Barbados island in 1600. This was likely the first time Westerners tasted rum.

It is also believed that rum has various names depending on the local dialect, such as “Roum” or “Rhum.” In Arabic, it’s called “Ar-Rum”, and other terms exist in the Islamic world, Europe, the Byzantine Empire, and the Seljuk Empire in Asia Minor, Greece, and the Ottoman Empire. Rum later spread to America and Europe.

Rum production entered the industrial sector in the 17th century when the sugarcane industry in the West Indies flourished. When the sugarcane was attacked by rot, sugar production from beets increased in both Europe and America. In response, sugar factories began producing rum as an additional source of income to support the sugar industry and thus rum became the industry’s saviour.

Types of Rum:

Light Rums: Includes silver and white rums, with a light aroma and possibly a hint of sweetness. Some may be filtered to remove colour. Examples include Brazil’s cachaça. Light rums are often used in cocktails rather than consumed neat.

Gold Rums: Also known as amber rums, these are medium-bodied rums often aged in oak barrels previously used to age bourbon. They have a stronger aroma than light rum, with flavour and aroma falling between light and dark rum.

Dark Rums: Includes brown, black, or red rums, typically aged in oak barrels for an extended period. They have a stronger, more robust aroma than light and gold rums, and may have a spicy flavour. Dark rums are often used in cooking and originate primarily from Jamaica, Haiti, and Martinique.

Spiced Rums: Flavoured with spices and caramel, these are usually dark rums, though some are golden. Lower-cost producers often make them by adding caramel and spices such as cinnamon, rosemary, cumin, and pepper to white rum.

Flavoured Rums: Infused with fruit flavours like banana, mango, orange, citrus, coconut, and lime, these rums are often used in cocktails, with matching fruit used as garnish.

Overproof Rums: These are high-proof rums, typically with alcohol content between 75-80%.

Premium Rums: High-quality rums meant to be sipped, like cognac or Scotch whisky. They are often produced by boutique distillers in small, meticulously crafted batches and are consumed neat.

Rum is becoming increasingly popular in Thailand. Many young entrepreneurs from various industries, including politicians, have ventured into rum production with considerable success. However, Thai rum should not be compared to Caribbean rum, as the climate and conditions for growing sugarcane are different. Thai producers must strive to create a distinctly “Thai rum” with unique flavours and character.

Thawatchai Theppitak

** Note: Some of the products in the photos may not be rum, but they showcase the evolution of alcoholic beverages in Thailand’s OTOP program.