Island of the gods

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2016
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Lying off the southern coast of South Korea, Jeju is an ideal location for a relaxing holiday

If Hawaii ever chose to move from Oceania to Asia, it would almost certainly choose Jeju Island for its home. Both islands share volcanic roots, boast lots of lava rock and are terrific locations for windsurfing and various other water sports. 
Unlike Hawaii though, Jeju, which sits 64 kilometres off the southern coast of South Korea, does not have long sandy beaches, nor does it have garland-clad girls dancing the hula.
Jeju Island is, though, a world-class destination in its own right.
Jeju is the world’s first recipient of Unesco’s triple crowns – a biosphere reserve, a global geopark, and a world natural heritage. In addition, since 2011, it has been recognised as one of the world’s new 7 wonders of nature.
Breathtaking nature aside, Jeju also boasts its distinct culture, rooted in shamanism and matrifocal ways of life.
Haenyeo or female divers are celebrated as one of Jeju’s most valued treasures. History tells us that the island’s Haenyeo were so independent and strong-willed that they even rose up against Japan between 1901 and 1933. Many decades have passed since but the Haenyeo still exist on Jeju Island today. They free dive to catch fish and are considered the family breadwinners.
Many Haenyeo are so skilled that they can dive into the water without any gear and stay under for a relatively long while.
At the Hanwha Aqua Planet, visitors can watch a Haenyeo diving performance four times a day. The women jump into the main tank of the aquarium without any oxygen tank to prove that the real Haenyeo can work under the sea at a depth of 5m for around 30 seconds. They can even stand for two minutes or longer under water at a depth of 20m when necessary. Age does not seem to pose an obstacle here, as the older and very likely more experienced performer can stay in the tank even longer than the young women. Together, they demonstrate perfectly the strength and tenacity of the women on Jeju Island.
Hanwha Aqua Planet is home to a great variety of marine species. Many of them are adorable, especially the swimming penguins and colourful fish, which are guaranteed to delight visitors. Others are startling, like the sandfish skink, snake-spotted eels, and various kinds of rock-like or plant-like fish. Sharks and manta rays are also among the highlights.
Even a stuffed oarfish at the aquarium promises to amaze visitors, especially Thais who are familiar with Naga myths. Indeed, this 462-cm display item bears striking resemblance to the imaginary Naga.
As interesting as Hanwha Aqua Planet is, its fame can’t compare with Mt Hallasan, a dormant volcano that’s also South Korea’s tallest mountain. Surrounded by the Hallasan National Park, it soars to 1,950 metres and boasts a beautiful lake at the top.
Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak is another outstanding island landmark. Declared part of a world heritage site, this wonderful crater materialised from hydrovolcanic eruptions about 5,000 years ago. From a distance, the huge crater at the top of Seongsan Ilchulbong looks like a gigantic crown. The crater is about 600m in diameter and 90m high. Up close, the peak offers a relaxing and ambience. Visitors can use the steps to climb hundreds of metres up while enjoying the view. It’s not too exhausting a trip when taken at a slow pace, which explains why both kids and the elderly are often seen on the steps. 
While the southeast and north sides of Seongsan Ilchulbong are cliffs, the northwest side is a verdant grassy hill that is connected to the Seongsan Village. The ridge provides an ideal spot for walks and for horse riding as well.
A visit to Seongsan Ilchulbong is rewarding, no matter the time of day but the peak is at its most magnificent at sunrise earning Seongsan Ilchubong the reputation for the best place to admire the first light of the day.
Jeju has much to offer visitors, particularly when it comes to nature. Fans of South Korean soaps will also find it interesting because the island is a popular filming location. Some visitors indeed tour the island for the sole purpose of treading the same paths as their favourite characters.
Seopjikoji, for example, was the main filming location for “All In” and “Full House”. Fans of the series can walk along the path to the lighthouse and look out over the long seashore.
Down the trail, closer to the seashore, are several shops selling grilled seafood. The grilled squid is fresh and particularly tasty.
Locals speak their own dialect, which is different from the language used on the mainland. But there’s no need to worry about communicating, body language works just fine.

  IF YOU GO
 

(The writer visited Jeju as a guest of the Korea Tourism Organisation.)