A tale of two cities

I'd never seen anything like it – a mini mountain of fluffy egg white paste, with menacing, fried scorpions jutting out of it. And this was for dinner?

I was on unfamiliar ground, out of my comfort zone and on a journey to get to know two Chinese cities in eight days, courtesy of fellow ANN member China Daily. As quirky as this welcome dish was when I first arrived in Xi’an city, it had a more elegant meaning. My hosts explained that it symbolises the majestic peaks in Shaanxi province, situated in China’s Northwest.

The egg white denoted the sometimes snow-capped mountains in the province. And such elevated grounds are habitats for scorpions, which, when fried and served to a true blue Malaysian girl like me, tasted like crunchy, salty anchovies in nasi lemak!

This dish was a rather apt introduction to my visit to Shaanxi, where I drank in the breathtaking sights of Mount Hua and Mount Taibai, the tallest mountain in East China. Xi’an, the one-time ancient capital of China, brings to mind the famed terracotta warriors, buried together with the Emperor to guard him in the afterlife.

Mount Hua, dubbed the “Western Great Mountain” is 120 kilometres from the city and accessible by a slow, steady cable car with transparent walls that climbs up steep elevations to get closer to the peak. The ride can be unnerving but the view makes it all worth while. Like traditional Chinese paintings of mountains leaping to life, Hua Shan basks in glory on a sunny day.

The beige, granite rock formations with trails of green shrubs running along its sides, gently being blown by the wind, bring to mind a mighty ancient warrior with rock-hard muscles standing tall in the misty air.

Named “Hua” after an official from heaven who met a monk, the mountain is considered a romantic spot, with love-locks adorning the railings along the way to the peak.

Mount Taibai is even taller at 3,511m above sea level and its peak is occasionally covered with snow though sadly not on the day of my visit.

Back on lower ground as we drove back into the city, my bus passed through the imposing Xi’an City Wall. Its long arms protectively wrap around the city centre, spanning about 14km in length.

Built during the Ming Dynasty, the 12m-high wall is now the pride of the city and, for tourists, a chance to cycle on the platform to soak up views of this historic city. From there, one can see the Bell and Drum Tower which, according to legend, was erected by the Xi’an people to stop earthquakes caused by a dragon living underground.

After engaging with soulful Xi’an, I make the acquaintance of her dynamic and unique sister, the coastal city of Ningbo in the Zhejiang province in eastern China.

Meaning “serene waves”, Ningbo is said to be one of the oldest cities in China, and a major port, thanks to its proximity to the sea. But despite its 7,000-year-old history, the city pulses to a modern beat and belies its true age.

With its trendy bars, futuristic architecture and many ongoing development projects, the city is young at heart and full of promise for so much more. From its growing High-Tech Industrial Development Zone and robust Ningbo Port, it is obvious that the place is poised to springboard itself into a highly advanced city.

I found myself more intrigued by the town’s subtle nuances, including the exceedingly fresh and succulent local seafood. One of the specialities is another multi-legged creature – the crab.

The crab, which is served raw, had a naturally sweet and juicy flavour and was followed by Ningbo’s signature glutinous rice balls with black sesame filling.

Betraying Ningbo’s seemingly youthful vibe is the Temple of King Asoka, built in 282 CE and the only ancient temple more than 1,000 years old in China. The structure was built by King Asoka from India, who became a Buddhist after he dreamt that the Buddha told him to stop killing off his rivals.

The temple also houses one of the 100 relics from the Shakyamuni Buddha’s remains, a holy artefact revered by followers.

Ningbo is also home to several significant figures, including Tu Youyou, who was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Medicine for her contribution towards creating a drug to treat malaria that has saved millions of lives. The 84-year-old’s family home in the city, which has been preserved for its traditional architecture, is open to visitors.

It is also the birthplace of Chen Yumen, the inventor of mah jong and his former residence, also in the city, has been turned into a mini museum for the public.

At night, Ningbo lets her hair down and transforms into a marvel of light and sound. One can easily soak up the vibrant atmosphere by taking a stroll along the charming and scenic Nantanghe Block.

Decked with rows of food shops and cafes, the block has a traditional Chinese façade and attracts many locals eager to relax over a meal.

For a stiffer drink, Ningbo folks and tourists alike converge at the hip joints near The Old Bund and bars overlooking the Yong River, which runs through the city.

Despite its rapid development and advancements, the other side of Ningbo coaxes you to just kick back, relax and drink it all in.