A very regal retreat
At the Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodphur, you'll be sharing your lodgings with the Maharaja
The state of Rajasthan in India is known for its heritage hotels, once royal palaces, and one place that visitors must visit is the Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodphur.
Perched high above the desert capital, the colossal palace is probably the last of the great palaces of India and one of the largest private residences in the world – set amidst 10.52 hectares of lush gardens.
It was here that Elizabeth Hurley chose to get hitched to Indian billionaire Arun Nayar in 2007 in a traditional Hindu ceremony. While the marriage ended in divorce, it helped generate hype for Umaid Bhawan, which is now listed as one the “1,001 Places to See Before You Die”.
I had the privilege of staying at the palace during a recent media trip organised by luxury Scotch whiskey, Royal Salute.
Security here is extremely tight as the present Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh II, and his family use the same gates to go in and out of the palace. Our bags were scanned with metal detectors for potential threats and bombs before being allowed into the grounds.
To match the grandeur of the palace, the hotel ensures guests are welcomed with a fleet of elephants and camels dressed in royal attire.
Constructed between 1929 and 1943 by Gaj Singh’s grandfather, Umaid Singh, to give work to subjects hit by a drought and famine in Jodhpur, part of the sandstone and marble palace is now a luxury hotel run by Taj Hotels.
Designed by Edwardian architect Henry Lanchester, the 347-room Umaid Bhawan Palace took more than 3,000 artisans and 15 years to complete.
The building does not use mortar or cement to bind stones together – all of its pieces are carved stones joined together by interlocking positive and negative pieces. When it was completed, it was the second largest private residence in the world after Buckingham Palace.
Like other maharajas born into a world of immense wealth and unchallenged privilege, Gaj Singh has had to adapt to shifting circumstances in republican India, which reduced the royals to commoners.
Rather than selling his palace Gaj Singh went into tourism to preserve his inheritance. The palaces, hunting lodges and forts are now being transformed from dusty museums to gleaming hotels where guests can taste the maharaja lifestyle.
Gaj Singh converted half his palace into a hotel. The other half remains the principal residence of the Jodhpur royal family and off-limits to the public.
In 2005, Taj Hotels took over management of the hotel and extended the royal traditions and hospitality to guests.
The lavish interiors with gilt furniture and elegant yet exotic murals are a blend of Eastern and Western architectural influences. Men with long black moustaches and turbans flit in and out of rooms speedily, carting food trays, drinks, wet towels and bags.
Stroll through the private museum, test your skills on the marbled squash courts or enjoy a game of billiards in the panelled recreation room. Take an exhilarating drive through the enchanting city of Jodhpur in a vintage car, accompanied by your royal butler. Stop beneath the starry night sky for a divine feast of grilled food accompanied by the music of the desert.
You can also opt for a swim in the underground or outdoor pool, read about Jodhpur's history in the library, check out the whispering gallery or experience the art of India's ancient healing wisdom in the romantic Jiva Grande Spa.
The ancient rulers of these desert kingdoms were fierce believers in their court astrologers, and would rarely make a move without the stars aligning in their favour. There is a palmist and astrologer to consult should you wish to peek into your future.
The enormous rooms, all suites, are nothing short of plush. Why, there is even a bath menu with four distinct choices, among them the Rani Padmawati milk bath!
Do stop by the Trophy Bar for a drink.
Here, you will be surrounded by artefacts and wildlife trophies collected by the maharajas of old. Tiger skin cushions, gazelles, bears, large wild boar tusks, binoculars and a collection of fishing gear, along with hunting, fishing and pig-sticking memorabilia, all call out to the visitor. An original six-foot tusk of an elephant, hunted in 1927, adds to the ambience of the room.
There are a number of restaurants, and your butler would be able to advise you on what cuisine to sample. Everything from the finest Indian to international cuisines is available. The menu consists of many recipes taken from the royal kitchens of the maharajas.
Would I want to be a maharani in my next life? Definitely!
