Southeast Asia weaving tradition, A lesson from Thailand and Indonesia

There are also shared similarities, such as weaving as a method of producing and the women being the weaver. Beyond that, the weaving and fabric also have stories or values imprinted into it, both personal by the weaver and also as community values.

In Thailand, the tradition of weaving is well preserved, such as the infamous silk weaving and Mudmee which boast intricate patterns. The reason for this preservation is the understanding of the value of the fabric, both culturally and as a means to generate income. However it is not without challenges, there is competition from modern textiles which requires regulation and support from the government. There is also a matter of cultural preservation, how to make this tradition be continued by the younger generations.

Across the ocean, the women of Iban in West Borneo are also trying to overcome a similar challenge by weaving tradition and conservation in both literal and figurative sense. Weaving or Tenun, as it is widely known, is part of their identity and tradition; it is part of their rites of passage, one that they must do to be accepted as a woman in their community. The result of this weaving tradition is a fabric that family members, especially their spouses, wear during traditional events. Some fabrics also have specific patterns and colours and undergo a ritual to receive an exalted status. 

In the past, the tenun tradition was at risk due to excessive development and changes in priorities in the Iban community. Other factors, such as land and forest exploitation due to mining and plantation, resulted in the loss of trees and cotton plants, which are the source of dyes and cotton threads. 

Based on data from The Center for International Forestry Research and World Agroforestry, between 2000 and 2017, there was approximately 59,962 km2 of forest loss across Borneo.  This number stands to grow bigger over the years, as based on a study published in 2022, where scientists developed a model for deforestation, which shows that there is a potential of 74,419 square kilometres of forest or approximately equivalent to 10 million football pitch — would be lost between 2018 and 2032.

In 2018, driven by the increasing interest and demand in the Tenun among Indonesians, the younger generation of Iban women, led by Margareta Mala, tried to revive the tenun practice by combining tradition with conservation efforts, just as they use different threads to weave the fabric. Mala has founded two communities: Endo Segadok, which houses experienced weavers, and Generasi Lestari, which educates young Iban women on weaving. In total, 58 women are involved in this weavers community. 

Mala and both of her communities understand that increasing interest means that there will be a point where their tenun product is going to be at risk of becoming mass-produced, reducing the cultural and conservation value. To ensure that the tenons are produced with that value, the community still uses natural dyes derived from their forest, while the threads are factory-made due to the loss of cotton plants in the area. They also ensure that each tenon is made according to their custom and that certain sacred patterns, which require rituals, remain part of their culture and are not sold to customers.  

They also use 'adopting' rather than 'purchasing' the fabric, emphasizing the unique relationship between the weavers and the people who decided to adopt the product. This approach fosters a sense of connection and responsibility, as the adopter becomes the custodian of the Iban culture for years to come. 

Weaving the conservation value

Apart from the weaving process, Mala and her community provide access to those who want to learn more about weaving and the Iban tradition, especially their relationship with nature. They create tours designed for the public to learn comprehensively about the fabric, the culture, the environment, and the people who weave it. Mala believes participating in these tours gives individuals a deeper appreciation for the Iban community's conservation efforts. 

However, the community faces certain limitations, including in weaving and raising awareness about their effort; that is why there is a multi-sectoral effort by the local, national, and non-profit sectors to increase visibility and encourage more Iban women to weave. The effort has provided avenues for the community to showcase their tenure at the local and international levels, raising awareness about the tenon and the effort conducted by the community.

This is important because while the tenun has been an Indonesian tradition, it has had its ups and downs; however, these efforts to raise awareness about Tenun have made it possible for more people to appreciate this piece of art. 

Impact on economy and well-being

By creating this activity, Mala and her community have also generated alternative income and empowered young Iban women to take weaving or organizing tours as their full-time jobs. For the men of Iban, this is not only providing an alternative livelihood but also improving their way of life since they do have an alternative to working at plantations. 

To ensure the community benefits, each of the revenues will be divided among the community members to ensure that everyone benefits from the weaving. For now, the tenun that Mala and her community produced costs IDR 3,000,000 and can go up to 10,000,000 (300 to 700 USD). 

"We hope that our efforts and the results can be useful for communities, both our own and other communities across Indonesia and other countries. As people learn more about traditional weavings, hopefully, they can understand the importance of conservation and sustainability and its impact on the people who make them," said Margareta Mala.

The story of how Mala and the community can utilize culture and weave it into a conservation effort is a lesson for other Southeast Asian communities, especially women-led ones. Given the rate and impact of deforestation across the region, everyone needs to be involved in conservation efforts that also support the community most affected by them, especially when they provide an opportunity to learn and adopt a piece of cultural heritage.