Bangkok’s Time Kaan restaurant sets dial for trip through Thai food history
Nothing lasts for long in Bangkok’s fast-changing fine-dining scene. The global foodie capital sizzles with novelty in a desperate quest to tease the tastebuds of residents and visitors alike.
Tom yum ice cream, anyone?
Some restaurants, though, still cling to their claims of authentic flavours and recipes.
But when it comes to food, what really defines “authenticity”? The time? The period? The recipe’s inventor? The history?
One restaurant is answering those questions by heading back to the Ayutthaya Era – and the centuries either side – for recipes that are both authentic and new.
“Authenticity is one thing, but to modern tastebuds, some dishes and recipes are better off left in the history books,” said Tripradap Wangwongwiwat, the co-owner of Time Kaan.
Staying true to its name, which translates as “through time”, this Sukhumvit restaurant serves authentic creations with a contemporary twist to tease modern palettes.
How does this work in practice?
“All dishes served here actually exist in history books, ancient script, diplomatic reports and travellers’ journals,” Tripradap explains.
After being plucked from their historical sources, the recipes are handed over to Time Kaan’s chef, Pornprom Laomanutsuk.
Her first step is to cook each dish according to the original instructions and ingredients.
The results are sometimes too bland for modern tastes, Pornprom said, but they make an authentic base on which she can weave her modern magic.
“We still cook the food with the original methods and flavours, but we introduce something to modernise the dishes.”
The restaurant serves a 14-course fine dining experience with a story behind each dish. All the recipes have been carefully interpreted and reconstructed by Pornprom.
As they savour the food, diners get to journey through time on a culinary trip that stirs up forgotten Thai stories and culture.
For The Nation, the highlight of the journey was the Bird’s Nest in Black Chicken Soup. This delicate creation is infused with elegant flavours to transport diners back to the Ayutthaya Era when Siamese diplomat Kosa Pan served the same dish to King Louis XIV of France.
For dessert, we chose “Gold Scratching Rock”, a sweet and soothing terminus for our trip through time.
Time Kaan serves up authentic Thai dishes with contemporary twists and a side of fascinating history on Sukhumvit Soi 8. Advance booking is advised (timekaan.com/082 646 1664).
Byline: Neena M.L
Photo: Dae Warunee
