Fairies through the looking glass

THOUGH YOU don’t need a magical spell to unlock its secrets, finding your way to the Iron Fairies Dragonfly restaurant is not an easy task for a mere mortal. There’s no signpost but this hidden jazz den, the second outlet of one of Bangkok’s hippest hangouts, Iron Fairies on Soi Thonglor, is well worth hunting down. 

The New York-style bar Fat Gut’z Saloon at Central Festival EastVille houses the eatery which is hidden from view behind a bookshelf and into which you can enter only if you’re a member or have made a reservation in advance. Once through the door you find yourself in a dim, zigzagging walkway that’s just wide enough for one person. The sense of fantasy is strong, rather like Alice must have felt when she was tumbling through to her Wonderland.

The mysterious passage leads to a magical dining room decked out like an ancient chapel. The walls are covered with what looks like moss and weathered bricks with the roots of a tree sticking out here and there. Lighting is provided by torches, the furniture is vintage oak and there’s a tall iron door, metal staircase and secluded balcony. The set up is both theatrical and pleasing. 

“This is a completely different world from the mundane exterior. Here you can escape stress and feel relaxed. It’s a mystical place that’s full of secrets. The metal staircase leads to a hidden balcony, a room encased behind the stage, and we’re making another secret area underneath the floor. The secrets are multi-layered,” says Johan Davidsson, general manager of the Order of the Fenix and Evolution Capital, the group that’s responsible for Iron Fairies, Clouds, Bangkok Betty and Bon Bon.

The tall iron door leads to the terrace, which is decked out in old steel, blistered walls and the cast-iron wrought in the form of a dragonfly that gives a fantastic effect thanks to a careful play of light and shadow. The furniture is hand-carved and not one piece looks the same. 

While the Iron Fairies on Soi Thonglor caters mainly to the expat crowd, the new branch’s regular customers are locals and the restaurant regularly draws a full house of 80 diners. 

“The Thonglor branch is known as a hangout for night owls. This place is designed to appeal to Thais of any age. So far, we have 75 members – 30 of them are invitation-only members and the rest gained entry by purchasing 88 bottles of Blue Fairies limited edition Johnny Walker Blue label, each priced at B8,888. Members get a dragonfly key with privileges like special discounts, reserved seats near the stage and on the secluded balcony as well as in the secret room behind the stage,” says Davidsson.

The door opens at 6pm and advance booking is required. Children are welcome though the area is off limits to the under-20s after 10pm. Live jazz bands, both home-grown and international, play nightly from 8.

On Monday nights singer Tae the Voice acts as host and guests are invited to jam with the live band. Resident outfits include Mellow Motif (Latin Jazz), Didier Mpondo (Ethno Jazz), Mr Tae featuring Happy Meal Jazz Band (Jazz & RNB) and Papa Benz (Blues), plus several international bands. DJs man the decks on Fridays and Saturdays into the wee hours.

The kitchen is under the control of chef Pakavadee “Nokveedz” Seriwiwattana, who is also the mastermind behind Fat Gut’z Saloon and cooks up the best of East and West for a menu that suits the Thai palate.

“We serve not only our famed burgers but also more Thai-style dishes all made with high-quality ingredients. People need delicious food that’s good value for money. Our food isn’t boring and is great for casual night outs,” he adds.

We sample the signature Binzy’s Beef Burger (Bt370), a generous beef patty with red onion rings, tomatoes, red oak lettuce and cheddar. It’s accompanied by home-made ketchup with a spicy kick, French fries and purple cabbage coleslaw.

Healthy Grill Honey Glazed Salmon Salad (Bt380) offers green salad leaves, tomatoes, sliced beetroots, carrots and roasted cashew nuts with a house dressing that’s also slightly spicy.

The classic Buffalo Wings (Bt250 for six pieces and Bt420 for 12) are crunchy on the outside and juicy within and come with a hot sauce that I found a bit too sweet. They’re served with blue cheese dip and celery and carrot sticks. 

More Thai is the Isaan-style Pork Steak (Bt350) – grilled pork brisket served with spicy jaew dipping sauce and a side of vegetables and sticky rice in bamboo baskets. Beef is optional at the same price.

Also on the menu are Iron Fairies favourites including the Mac ‘n’ Cheese Bowl (Bt280) and the Old Man Jap’s Wedges (Bt130) – potato wedges served with spicy ketchup. 

If you have enough room for dessert, Chocolate Fondue (Bt140) served with slices of strawberry, pear, kiwi and marshmallow is great for sharing.

Wash your meal down with one or more of the signature cocktails but be warned, they do pack a serious punch. The drinks list features Smoke in a Bottle No 1 (Bt320), a concoction of blueberry infused vodka, elderflower syrup, sage, cassis and cocoa smoke that comes in a bottle and gives off a heady aroma when the cork is popped. 

Miner’s Old Fashioned (Bt320) is a mixture of whisky with bitters, pomelo peel and dates while Jasmine White Lady (Bt280) features gin, Grand Marnier, lemon juice, jasmine and egg white with jasmine scent.

 

FLYING HIGH

Iron Fairies Dragonfly is hidden inside the Fat Gut’z Saloon at the main entrance to Central Festival EastVille on Ekamai-Ram Intra Road. 

It’s open nightly from 6pm to 1am. The live music starts at 8pm.

Book a table at (099) 161 3951 and check out “TheIronFairiesDragonfly” page on Facebook.