Speaking with the spirits

Every year in the week leading to the full moon of Wahkaung, tens of thousands of pilgrims flock to Myanmar’s biggest Nat festival.
The crowds gathered for six days in Taungbyone village near Mandalay in honour of two ancient spirit brothers, Shwe Hpyin Gyi and Shwe Hpyin Lay. The event brings together thousands of festive worshippers who dance together with spirit mediums, feast on snacks by the roadside and shop for souvenirs.
Nats are spirits that form part of an ancient animist belief system still celebrated in Myanmar - a predominately Buddhist country.
“Most of the visitors are from Mandalay and its nearby areas of Kyaukse, Sagaing, and Mattaya. Since they know which days will be crowded, they come to pay homage to the pagoda, offer flowers and money to the two brothers, and buy souvenirs and snacks from the bazaar,” said a vendor of Kayay Kayar, a traditional Myanmar snack.
According to legend, the two brothers were skilled warriors in King Anawrahta’s army in the 11th century. When King Anawrahta was building the Wish-Fulfilling Pagoda in Taungbyone, he called his court nobles to donate a brick each for the pagoda, but the two brothers failed to make their donation.
One version says they were gambling and drinking while others say there were victims of a conspiracy by jealous ministers. The two warriors were executed and became angry spirits who returned to stop the king on his journey back to the palace.
To appease the spirits, the king gave them a place to stay in Taungbyone where they have resided ever since.
Many worshippers believe that making offerings of money, flowers and even alcohol to the Nats will bring them prosperity and good fortune. They also refrain from eating pork during the festival. The ceremony is entertained by Natkadaws (mediums) who dance and drink with the crowds to traditional Nat music while offerings are made to the spirit brothers.
Women originally performed the tasks of Natkadaws, but nowadays the mediums are mostly transvestites. The festival is also popular among the gay community because the transgender spirit medium role has long been an accepted part of the culture. Many tourists were also there to experience the festival.
Some local visitors this year voiced their disappointment with the festival saying that it had become too crowded with merry makers.
“I was interested in the festival but when I arrived I was fed up. Is it a pagoda festival or a festival for the gays? There were many people dancing vigorously on the stage to the sound of traditional orchestra. It was beyond belief. People are more interested in merry making,” said Akardo from North Dagon Township in Yangon.
The six-day festival also attracts hundreds of sellers and traders who, despite escalating prices, make a living selling fruits and flowers used for offerings. Others also sell snacks and food to the festive crowds.
“The price of commodities is higher than last year. But, in spite of high prices, the business is good. We sell bananas and coconuts. The charge for renting the shop is cheaper than last year. We have been selling at this festival for over 30 years,” said Cho San a vendor from Mattaya.
The Taungbyone Nat Festival was held this year between August 16 to 21. The opening and ending days of the festival are the most crowded every year as thousands of worshipers arrive to make offerings to the venerated spirit brothers. Many others, including tourists, come just to enjoy the party.