Seeing history as it fades
The large Mahakan Fort community, more than a century old, is about to disappear
Behind one of Bangkok’s old fortress walls lies an equally historic community that city authorities are about to move elsewhere – forcibly if necessary – and replace with a tourist attraction.
The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) has plans to turn Mahakan Fort – which 200 years ago protected the capital from threats across the river – into a canal-side historical park. The community nestled alongside the walls is about to be dispersed forever.
Outsiders might see the community as a crowded, dilapidated slum, another eyesore on the city map. That’s what the BMA sees as well. Looking deeper, though, there’s a lively heart amid the cracked wood of the classic Siamese houses erected a century ago. History is already much in evidence without the need for refurbishing and preservation.
Community leader Thawatchai Voramahakun says it’s far more than just home to the residents. It’s a link connecting brash, modern Bangkok to its quieter, more sociable past.
“People nowadays know nothing about their roots, but here we are, standing on the firm roots of history, and we’re well aware of who we are,” he says, showing off a cigarette box that once belonged his grandfather, who made traditional musical instruments.
“My family made instruments for many generations, and my grandfather was the last inheritor of the family business. He and his wife had only daughters, and women were forbidden from making these kinds of instruments.”
Old photos of the family home offer a fascinating glimpse of the past. Celebrated music teachers came for worshipful ceremonies. One corner of the house was where his grandfather always relaxed after work with a cigarette.
“All the people of this community have their own stories to share,” Thawatchai says. “They’re stories about how the people lived their lives throughout the history of this city.”
As for the BMA plans to relocate the community (two other areas in the city have been earmarked), he says, “We don’t have anyplace to go. Our homes and history are here. If we’re evicted, our roots will be destroyed.”
Thawatchai says the community dates back almost 200 years and spans the area from the fortress walls to the canal that encircled Bangkok at the dawn of the Rattanakosin Era, when attack from downriver and from the east was still a frequent possibility.
Once that threat subsided, the nobility occupied the area, an idyllic location on the surrounding canal, Rop Krung, and near the entrance to Klong Saen Saep. “Many people in the community today are descendants of the servants and slaves of the nobility,” Thawatchai says.
“After King Rama V abolished slavery, a lot of those who were freed had no place to go, so they set up homes close to their former masters. This is how the community grew.”
Evidence of aristocratic settlers can still be seen in the area today. Some of the houses stand out – a far cry from the “eyesore” label attached to the community. Lampin Kajitsuwan, a relative of one of the most important figures of modern Thai history, Puey Ungpakorn, lives in an old traditional house.
“This house belonged to Professor Puey’s family and he lived here for many years before giving it to a sibling,” she says. “I’m the third generation living here, with my daughter and grandson.”
She doesn’t remember exactly how old the building is, but it’s certainly showing signs of age and requires regular maintenance. The window frames are damaged, but Lampin can’t find a carpenter able to repair this sort of woodwork.
Regardless, the house appears sound in structure and is kept clean and tidy. Lampin’s even had a film crew in recently, shooting scenes for a period soap opera, she says proudly.
The community is also sanctuary for folk arts that are rarely seen in the capital now. It’s famous for its handmade birdcages, traditionally used to hold birds as they sang in competition.
Ratchanee Nilbai’s family has been making the cages for three generations. Her family moved to Bangkok from the South about 100 years ago.
“There aren’t many makers of handmade birdcages left anywhere,” she says. “Future generations might not even know how to make them.
“I know the BMA wants to redevelop the land as an historical park so tourists can learn about the city,” Ratchanee says. “But I have to wonder why they don’t just keep the community – it’s already a living museum, and the tourists could learn the history directly from the mouths of the descendants!”
Deputy Bangkok governor Police General Asawin Kwanmuang, though, insists the community must go, pointing out that the residents are now living illegally on municipal land.
“They were compensated for being evicted in 1992, and anyway, most of them already have places to go,” he says.
“We will definitely reclaim the land next month, after the Songkran Festival. The governor, MR Sukhumbhand Paribatra, is urging on this operation, which is aimed at making Rop Krung Canal beautiful again and creating a new tourist attraction.”
Asawin speaks with assurance, and yet uncertainty lingers in the community and, for now at least, the lives of the residents go on.
PAST MEETS THE PRESENT
- 1783: Mahakan Fort established. During the reign of King Rama III (1824-51), people begin settling between the fort walls and Rop Krung Canal.
- 1897: A likay theatre is erected.
- 1949: The government’s Fine Arts Department has Mahakan Fort registered as a national historic site.
- 1959: Government initiates plans to revamp the area.
- 1985: The community is registered as a legal settlement.
- 1992: The city reclaims land deeds and pays the residents compensation for eviction.
- 1994: Residents are officially ordered to move out.
- 1996: The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration arranges for the residents to move to Lat Krabang.
- 2000: Land is also offered in Phasi Charoen.
- 2002: The community sues the BMA in Administrative Court.
- 2003: Initial eviction efforts fail.
- 2005: Bangkok governor and the community sign an agreement on a conservation project.
- 2006: The BMA wins the right to evict the residents in the Supreme Administrative Court
- 2016: The BMA threatens force if necessary in evicting the residents.
- THENATION
