The way we dressed so fine

Brash, bold, Bangkok offers countless vistas for fashion shoots, but it wasn’t that long ago that a rice field upcountry was the preferred setting for Thai models draped in chic outfits. Back in the 1970s, the rustic backdrop was the hot trend.

That’s one of many surprises – or at least jogs to the memory – offered by the exhibition “Visionaries: 40 Years of Thai Fashion through the Eyes of Photographers”, opening at Siam Center on September 9.

The show, continuing through October 5, will feature 400 outstanding shots by 20 of the country’s best lensmen, spanning the 1970s to the 2000s.

“The camera is a piece of equipment and, just like fashion in clothes, its styles come and go, even the big move from film to digital,” says Wasan Puengprasert, one of Dichan magazine’s top photographers. 

“But what makes a photograph classic and unique, again like fashion, is the attitude and character that comes out. One of the easiest ways to study the evolution of modern Thai fashion is to go through the photos, which accurately reflect the fashion in any given period.”

That’s easier said than done, though, Wasan admits, because all those photos are in old magazines, and they in turn are in the hands of “a few private collectors”. “So what we’ve done for this exhibition is go directly to the origin – the photographers who snapped the shutter.”

Given crystal-clear hindsight, the 1970s quickly emerge as a decade of wonder. That’s when Somchai Kaewthong opened his fashion house, Kai Boutique. Siam Center itself opened in 1973. The magazines BR, Lalana, Dichan, 21 and New City were all launched. And that’s when we first saw many of the models who are now household names, including Penporn Praitool, Arpapan Hunter, Pichitra Boonyarattapan, Kanchana Plodpai, Onnapa Krissadee, Itsaree Pinijpoowadon and Rungnapa Kittiwat. 

Thai fashion was ready to boom and a generation of photographers was in place to capture the moment. Nopadon Chotasiri in particular came up with some of the most memorable fashion sets of the period.

The 1980s saw the birth of more clothing brands, such as Tirapan, Duangjai Bis, Ong-art Niramon, Theatre, Soda and Greyhound. The designs showed the influence of luxurious Western couture styles, but there were already clear indications of a nascent Thai style in the pictures published in Praew and Image magazines. Certain shots by Chotvich Suwongs and Sakchai Guy became the talk of the town. 

In Thailand as everywhere, the 1990s were dominated by what is now called “street fashion”, and terrific images from the time are going on view from Wasan, Wirach Jattuwattana, Sumet Wiwatwicha, Nopadon Kaosam-ang, Amat Nimitpark, Nat Prakobsantisuk, Luckana Virunanon, Ong-on Upa-in, Seubpong Singha-sut and Chira Wichaisuthikul. 

Through the late ’90s and into the 21st century, we saw more and more talents appear, like Punsiri Siriwetchapun, Surat Jariyawatanawijit, Chutharut Pornmuneesoontorn, Tada Varich, Surasak Ittirit and Thananon Thanakornkarn.

Chotvich Suwongs, who for 30 years worked primarily for Praew, says quite frankly that taking fashion photos is easy anytime there’s a beautiful woman posing in front of you, though staying on top of the trends is trickier. 

“Fashion changes all the time and it’s hard to keep up with it,” he says. “But what doesn’t change is the photographer’s individual style. That’s what you see lasting. You can keep taking photos for 40 or 50 years no problem – as long as you know yourself.”

Sumet Wiwatwicha, another of the top guns of the ’90s, says continued success in the business requires being a team player and knowing how to deal with any situation that might arise at a shoot. “There are at least 10 people a fashion photographer has to work with, such as the designer, the stylist, the makeup artist and the hair stylist. No one’s a soloist. It involves a lot of compromising.”

Tada Varich concurs about the constant shifts in clothing styles but stresses that fashion – and fashion photography – are forms of art that make people happy. “And what makes us happy is all that matters.”

A substantial segment of the “Visionaries” exhibition is a retrospective tribute to the much-esteemed pioneer Witaya Marayat, who laid the groundwork for what came later, giving rise to a whole new perspective in the way it captured the essence of Thai fashion. More than 40 of his best-known photos will be on display.

The balance of the show represents the first-ever overview of Thai fashion photography from beginning to the present.

The event also affords a chance to buy some of the stunning clothes pictured. Siam Center and the designers have selected several “Reproductions of the Rare”, covering the past 40 years, for sale in a limited-edition capsule collection for Absolut Siam.

At the same time, aspiring fashion photographers can attend a workshop called “Next” and learn from the big names from prestigious publications. Nat Prakobsantisuk is in charge of the educational scheme. “It’s an intensive programme for young photographers, open to students from all over the country,” he says. “Twenty of them will ultimately be selected to take part in the workshop, where they will learn techniques from key fashion personnel such as Wasan, Tada, Punsiri Siriwetchapun, Araya Indra and Sukhon Simaratanakul. It’s a truly precious opportunity.”

The “Visionaries” opening on September 9 will be a grand gala, during which Witaya’s images will be auctioned off to the highest bidders.

 FASHION SHOOT

 - “Visionaries: 40 Years of Thai Fashion through the Eyes of Photographers” will be at Siam Center’s Ideaopolis from September 9 to October 5.