Another Swede sensation
That Scandinavian knack for minimalist elegance is turned to a coffeeshop with brilliant results
IT WOULD be superficial to say that the new Rocket Coffeebar is pulling in the ladies because the guys who own the place are so good-looking. That’s true, but it’s only part of the appeal.
The owners in question are the same Swedes – Thomas Anostam and brothers Ben-David Sorum and Dannie Sorum – who’ve been making waves in Bangkok with Flow Cocktail, Hyde & Seek and Viva Aviv. Their latest venture has great coffee and all-day breakfast – quite a change for these boys, but they insist it’s actually their most personal project yet.
Coffee is a big thing in Scandinavia, but while folks along the Mediterranean focus on the art of espresso, the northerners take a more holistic approach, offering freshly made coffee and baked goods, served in an ambience to match.
Rocket is all light-shaded wood and airiness. At the centre is an open kitchen where you can watch the staff at work. The intimacy feels like sitting right at the bar in a pub waiting for your favourite bartender to mix you something special. The fact that the owners are cocktail specialists probably has a lot to do with this.
The cold-brewed coffee and tea are pre-made and served in a nice little bottle. My Rocket Fuel Cold Brew Coffee (Bt120) was a blend of beans from Thailand, Indonesia, Brazil and Guatemala, the heady liquid poured into an ice-filled glass and garnished with orange peel. It’s thirst-quenching and powerful, which was exactly what I needed.
My wife opted for Butterfly Pea & Peppermint Cold-steeped Tea (also Bt120), served in a similar fashion but with peppermint as the garnish. It was refreshing and flavourful, far more so than many of the drinks served in Bangkok’s top bars.
As for the food, while the soft-launch menu is limited, the dishes are also well ahead of Rocket’s competitors. Our choices were Eggs Benedict (Bt185) and Egg & Soldiers (Bt60) – both beautifully presented with that Scandinavian minimalism. “Finally, someone in Bangkok makes the eggs right!” I decided.
The trio of Swedes would never settled for just coffee and breakfast, of course, so you also have a choice of champagne and simple cocktails like an Aperol spritz. If booze and bacon seem an odd mix to you, I think it perfectly showcases the owners’ strengths.
Although we were generally satisfied with our visit, not everything was executed well. The food and drinks took their time arriving and the Thai serving staff occasionally seemed clueless. This is okay, though, since Rocket has been open barely two months.
What I like is its fresh take on the coffeeshop experience – they add their personal touches and the cocktail bar’s best practices. I also appreciate the little details that the owners provide, which automatically elevates the experience. The cold drinks, for instance, are served with clear cubes of ice that not only look good but also mean far less dilution, so you get the most out of your drink.
I’m a fan of substance over style in any establishment. And though I don’t live in the area, expect me to be a regular at the Rocket Coffeebar.
CHOTIPONG LEENUTAPHONG is a co-owner of Little Beast, a gastronomic bar on Soi Thong Lor; Pig a Chic, a Thai street-food venture in London; and soon Vesper, a Bangkok cocktail bar.
Catch more of his views at Foodie-Collection.com or Instagram: @foodiecollection.
BLAST OFF
>>The Rocket Coffeebar on Sathorn Soi 12 off Silom Road is open daily except Monday from 7 to 7.
>>Call (02) 635 0404 or visit www.RocketCoffeebar.com.
