Food with the 'Wow' factor
The all-day dining venue at the new W Hotel offers tastes from around the world
A bejewelled mural in tattoo art style depicting a battle between the phoenix and the tiger catches your eyes as soon as you enter the lobby of the new W Hotel Bangkok. Take the ultra-modern spiral staircase to the Kitchen Table restaurant on the second floor and you’re greeted by another fight scene – this time between Chalawan, the crocodile king, and his hunter Kraithong, the characters from the Thai folktale “Kraithong”.
Inside the restaurant, the amber-illuminated walls, the staffs’ uniforms and the upholstered leather chairs all boast a crocodile pattern. Standing at the centre is a vitrine that serves as a partition for this multi-zone dining room featuring the signature style of local artist Sutee Kunavichayanont. It shows multiple images of Kraithong performing the wai on the front and while the back looks identical, a closer look three crocodiles among the hunters.
The high-ceilinged, 120-seat Kitchen Table is spacious, with an open kitchen along one side and a mix of wooden furniture and couches. It’s a pleasant place to enjoy all-day dining and offers a wide range of Asian and Western dishes presented with a delightfully feminine touch.
“We serve dishes from around the world. I’ve worked in and travelled to many places and I like to take the flavours from these places. When you have only one restaurant in a hotel, it’s good to offer dishes that appeal to everyone. Someone who’s just got off the plane may want familiar comfort food while a couple probably prefers a romantic dinner. We have to cover most situations,” says executive chef Sarah Briegel.
Our first starter is Vegetable Ceviche (Bt350) served on a black stone plate with a variety of baby vegetables bringing to mind the colours of spring. Perfect for the vegetarian, the baby root veggies and legumes are fresh, crunchy and naturally sweet, simply dressed with lime juice, jalapeno and olive oil. Served next in an organic-shaped black bowl is Hamachi Carpaccio (Bt480) featuring a few of fresh slices of Japanese yellowtail on thin slices of asparagus. It’s dressed with aromatic citrus zest of yuzu that leaves you wanting more.
“I like to use the best products I can find and prefer to keep the flavours clean, simple and fresh. I’m very fussy about hygiene and don’t approve of handling food too much,” she says.
“My focus starts with a classic idea though the presentation style isn’t always classic. I love the farm to table concept and enjoy using secondary cuts to maximise flavour and textures.
Briegel, who hails from Perth in Australia, says customers can count on her Australian lamb. Grilled Australian Lamb Cutlets (Bt800) are presented on a pristine white plate dressed with green pea puree and fresh tomatoes and served with ravioli stuffed with sweetbread and shitake mushroom, and lamb jus gravy.
“Lamb and peas have classic flavours so why would I want to change them?” she asks. “Sweetbread and shitake mushroom go amazingly well together too.”
Next up is Braised Wagyu Beef Cheek (Bt750) braised in Pedro Ximenez sherry for a sweet and gravy and served with baby horseradish and cauliflower.
For Thai dishes, the chef offers Pla Kapong Nueng Manao or Steamed Sea Bass with Lime Sauce (Bt500). Two chunks of fish are topped with garlic, chilli, lemongrass and golden needle mushrooms in a spicy and tangy dressing. Served with steamed jasmine rice on the side, the fish is fresh and firm while the dressing is authentically pleasing. Equally tempting is Pla Tod Sam Rod or Crisp Snapper with Snake Bean Salad (Bt480). The snapper fillets are fried until golden then topped with sam rod sauce – a reference to the three flavours of spicy, sweet and sour – and served with sticky rice.
“I like Thai food and always cook at home,” says the chef. “I think a lot of people come to Thailand because the food is fantastic. I try to maintain authentic tastes but present the dishes in a modern way.”
The meal is completed with three tempting desserts – each priced at Bt300. My favourite is the Carrot Cake with Cinnamon Frosting that’s not too sweet and comes topped with walnut crisps for a crunchier texture. Other must-tries are Valrhona Majari Chocolate Tart with Raspberry Sorbet, and Espresso Tiramisu Brandy Chocolate Fudge.
PALATE PLEASERS
>> The Kitchen Table is open daily from 6.30am to 10.30pm.
>> W Hotel Bangkok is at the intersection of Sathorn and Narathiwas Roads. Call (02) 344 4000 or visit www.WHotels.com/bangkok.
