A true taste of India

FRIDAY, MARCH 29, 2013
|

A stalwart of the Pahurat dining scene for more than half a century, Royal India brings its subtle spices to Siam Paragon

Upmarket Siam Paragon is home to many restaurants of different nationalities but for those craving authentic Indian cuisine and Halal foods, only one eatery answers the call: Royal India on the ground floor.

Royal India claims to be Thailand’s first Indian restaurant, opening its door in the Pahurat area, known as Bangkok’s Little India, some 50 years ago. Third generation owner Somkid Sirikumarkul has set out to make it easy for diners to try Indian food by offering the restaurant’s range of original dishes at convenient shopping malls (there’s also a branch at the Emporium).
In a nod to the ever-increasing number of Muslim visitors to Bangkok, the preparation of food here is certified halal in line with Islamic law. Cattle and chickens are slaughtered and processed using a special method and pork and alcohol are forbidden.
“We still maintain the concept of homely foods so that diners can enjoy their main meal with us. We try to use less oil and cheese so that our dishes are not too heavy. Those new to Indian food can opt for a set menu, either non-vegetarian or vegetarian, which allows them to sample a variety of dishes,” says Somkid. “Our eatery emphasises north Indian cuisine whose rich flavour is underscored by red onion, garlic, tomato and several different spices.”
Asian diners are used to spices but those typically added to Indian cuisine are not always to everyone’s linking. I’m not an Indian food fan, always opting for other cuisine when I have a choice, but I nonetheless enjoyed trying the dishes Royal India has to offer.
“We have both roti and naan to eat with curry. Indian people normally eat roti, which is whole-wheat bread, while foreigners prefer naan, which is white bread. You can have them plain or with cheese, onion, garlic and potato,” says Somkid.
If mutton is your thing, you won’t be disappointed with Biryani Mutton (Bt325), in which pieces of mutton are simmered with basmati rice, Indian herbs, yoghurt and saffron. It is accompanied with mint sauce, mutton curry and salad.
“We use basmati rice from India, It’s a fragrant, long grain rice and more expensive than Thai jasmine rice. When fully cooked, the rice doesn’t stick together and holds its long shape, giving off a pleasant aroma,” he says.
 
 
Another pleasing dish is Roghan Josh or mutton curry (Bt285) that comes with thick, flavourful red sauce and tender mutton that has been slow-cooked in oil, yoghurt and a mix of many different spices. Despite its intense red hue, it is not a particularly fiery curry and best enjoyed with naan. 
For me, the most pleasing dish was Assorted Kebabs served on a hot platter with chutney (Bt360) that’s easy to eat for anyone new to Indian food. It features marinated and grilled chunks of boneless chicken tikka, boneless fish tikka, seekh kebab (chicken sausage) and achari chicken marinated in yoghurt, ginger, garlic paste and hot pickle spices. 
I also enjoyed Chicken Tikka Masala ((Bt185) though Somkid explains that this dish owes its origins to the British, who came up with the idea of adding masala sauce to chicken tikka. The masala is a tomato and onion-based sauce flavoured with Indian spices. 
Cheese lovers will enjoy Kadai Paneer (Bt215), bite-size cheese curry cooked with fresh cucumber, fresh tomato and onion. The home-made paneer is Indian cottage cheese made with whole cow’s milk that is soft and fresh and high in protein.
Vegetarians should savour the nutty Kabuli Chana (Bt165), a chickpea curry simmered in a spicy rich curry of onion, tomatoes and ginger garlic paste. It can be eaten with roti or naan.
 
SUMPTUOUS SPICES
Royal India’s Siam Paragon branch is on M floor and opens daily from 10.30am to 10pm. Call (02) 610 7667 or visit www.RoyalIndiaThailand.com.