Lessons from Hat Yai

I travelled to Hat Yai hoping to learn more about its unique blend of cultures and languages, and to observe the depictions in the novel.

Hat Yai is often known as a hub for Chinese, Malay and Thai communities.

Regardless of background, almost everyone I met – whether in Chinese neighbourhoods, Malay restaurants, or bustling night markets – communicated primarily in Thai.

While I managed to speak to Thai Malays in their native tongue, I found their Malay proficiency to be far below their Thai.

Many could understand what I was saying but struggled to respond without mixing in Thai words, often leading to confusion.

It was clear to me that Thai is their everyday language, reflecting how deeply their identity is tied to their national language.

Daily ritual

Another striking observation I made was the strong sense of unity embraced by people of all backgrounds.

Every morning at 8 am and every evening at 6 pm, the Thai national anthem plays in public places, and everyone pauses in respectful silence.

Whether Malay, Chinese or Thai, people stop their activities and stand in quiet reverence. This daily ritual serves as a powerful reminder of national identity.

It made me reflect on the importance of cultivating this unity in multi-ethnic Malaysia.

The people of Hat Yai seem to have found a balance in embracing the Thai language and customs while maintaining aspects of their cultural traditions.

It is a reflection of how identity can evolve, incorporating new elements while remaining rooted in a shared sense of belonging.

Local cuisine

Food is often said to reflect a country’s heritage, and in Thailand, it doesn’t disappoint.

Hat Yai’s cuisine is distinctively spicy, offering bold flavours that are somewhat different from the spiciness found in Malaysia.

I sampled mee hoon soup and pad kra pao at a local Muslim restaurant, specifically requesting extra spice.

While savouring the dishes, I saw how food brings people together across ethnicities, serving as a shared experience that transcends linguistic and cultural barriers.

Whether Malay, Thai or Chinese, the people of Hat Yai seem to take pride in their food, especially its spice, which I found to be a unifying factor in this diverse city.

Cultural nuances

Thais are well-known for their politeness and hospitality, and I experienced this firsthand during my stay.

I was greeted with the signature sawadee krap and the traditional wai gesture everywhere I went, reflecting the outward warmth of Thai culture.

However, I noticed that individual warmth varied. While some people were genuinely friendly, others were more reserved, reminding me that cultural customs may not always fully capture personal feelings.

Suang U, the main character in Letters from Thailand, often encounters polite facades but struggles to feel a sense of belonging.

Similarly, I sometimes felt like an outsider in Hat Yai, especially when locals assumed I was Thai based on my appearance.

Their default communication with me was in Thai, and I had to clarify that I was Malaysian and could only speak English or Malay.

Deeper appreciation

My short stay in Hat Yai, particularly in its Chinese neighbourhood, gave me a deeper appreciation of how identity, language and culture intersect for both individuals and communities.

Just as in Letters from Thailand, I saw how people can maintain aspects of their heritage while adopting new elements of a national identity. The use of Thai as a unifying language and pride in national customs like the anthem reflects this duality of belonging.

In closing, my journey to Hat Yai, much like Suang U’s reflections in Letters from Thailand, reminded me of the complexities of identity.

Though the people in Hat Yai come from different backgrounds, they have embraced a shared Thai identity.

As I left Hat Yai, I realised that the beauty of diversity lies not in erasing differences, but in embracing them as part of a shared, evolving culture.

It is our differences that allow us to thrive in a multi-ethnic society, celebrating a rich tapestry of cultures, religions and languages, while still coming together as one.

Daniel Fadzlan

The Star

Asia News Network