The bump-headed fish (Incisilabeo behri) – so called for a distinctive ‘hump’ it develops during the breeding season – generally sells for approximately 200,000 riels ($50) per kg. It, and the Mekong erythrospila, while can sell for two-and-a-half times that, are not among the 58 fish species prohibited from being caught or sold in Cambodia, although they are classed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red list.
The high value of the fish – described as worth their weight in gold – stems from their purported sweet and delicate flavour. In addition, their rarity is a factor.
One local policeman told The Post that he had once eaten it, but many years ago, when the price was still 100,000 riel ($25) per kg.
“Ordinary people don't dare eat this fish because it is as valuable as gold. Only wealthy individuals or high-ranking officials from far away buy them. They are so rare that they are only occasionally available, sometimes not even once a year,” he explained.
“I tasted it when I first came to Stung Treng. Its flavour is truly exquisite. Catching one feels like striking gold. These fish are typically large, sometimes weighing more than 10kg,” he added.
In 2009, the Cambodian government issued Sub-Decree No. 123, which lists 58 endangered fish species which are prohibited from being caught or sold.
Ouk Vibol, head of the Fisheries Conservation Department at the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries, confirmed that any fish not included in the 58-species list can be legally fished, using approved methods from the ministry.
“These species are not classified as endangered or near extinction. If they were, fishing would be banned. These fish remain in demand in the market,” he said.
“Adding these species to the protected list would impact the economy and people’s livelihoods. Decisions on such classifications must consider economic, social and environmental factors,” he explained.
He added that the agriculture ministry has taken measures to collect some of the fish, taking them to hatcheries where the possibility of breeding them in captivity can be examined.
According to Wonders of the Mekong, the distinctive bump-headed fish migrates from the Sesan, Sekong and Srepok rivers into the Mekong. It moves downstream to areas near Kratie and Stung Treng provinces or upstream to southern Laos and northeastern Thailand in search of food, such as algae on rocks.
The species can grow up to 60cm long and spawn in the middle of the Mekong River during July and August. Major threats include net fishing during spawning and migration seasons.
In 2020, Wonders of the Mekong warned that the growing use of electro-fishing equipment and the construction of hydropower dams along the Mekong River could negatively impact this species' migration patterns.
Phak Seangly
The Phnom Penh Post
Asia News Network