My Chiang Mai Favourites 

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 05, 2023

I have loved Chiang Mai for three decades and I love it more albeit differently each time I visit. Thailand is an amazing country and Chiang Mai is an especially fantastic city with sooooo much to offer its lucky visitors and residents. 

Thailand’s second city, the Rose of the North, Chiang Mai is officially designated a UNESCO Creative City and has applied to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

“Chiang Mai is distinctly cheaper than many tourist destinations in Thailand”, according to Nicole Leigh West. “Plus, there’s so much to explore, including ancient temples, markets, a fantastic cafe scene, mountains, and traditional villages. Street food here is excellent and you’ll find your Pad Thai for as little as $1.” 

My favourites may not be your favourites, but there is only one way to find out! 

“Despite being a small city”, Bruno Andrade exclaims, “it’s amazing how many different things there are to see and do in Chiang Mai!” I heartily concur. 

My Favourite Area of Chiang Mai: 

Old City 

Walk the streets and lanes of the Old City founded in 1296, which is surrounded by partial walls and a moat, and stop into shops and cafes, wander into temples, meet people, let serendipity be your guide, and discover the magic of this original square region of the city. 

“You could spend an entire day walking the streets of the Old Town, with so many different things to see and do, it is near impossible to get bored.” — Jonny Melon

My student Abby said that “The best thing about Chiang Mai is you can get lost yet find the most extraordinary things and then realize you were never lost to begin with.” 

My Favourite (Vegan) Hotels: 
Green Tiger House and Away Chiang Mai Resort 

Both Green Tiger and Away are great hotels with great food and great service. Green Tiger is greener and more informal in a garden setting, while Away is fancier and painted white. Both have amazing breakfasts and small pools. Tucked in a quiet alley inside the quaint Old City, the Green Tiger House, and its plant-based Reform Kafé, is a peaceful and sustainable oasis that awaits you, where you can enter a delightful world. Tucked away down a different alley, the Away resort feels like you are away, yet it is only a couple minutes’ walk from the famous Tha Phae Gate, a short distance to the Night Bazaar, and right nearby Tha Phae Road with some magnificent temples, shopping, restaurants, and cafes. 

“In Chiang Mai, you’re going to be spoiled for choice when it comes to boutique hotels. The city has a beautiful selection of accommodations, ranging from classic 5-star resorts to unique hotels that double up as art galleries.” — Richard Collett

My Chiang Mai Favourites 

My Favourite Temples: 

There are reportedly 300 temples in Chiang Mai and 36 in the Old City alone, so there is no way to choose only one. Temples in Thailand play many roles, in addition to being religious sites. 

Here are my top 10 Favourite temples: 

Wat Phra Singh is the most famous temple in Chiang Mai. 

Wat Chedi Luang is an iconic temple with so many things to see, both ancient and modern.

Wat Chiang Man is the oldest temple in Chiang Mai and it is large, peaceful, and stunning. 

Wat Sri Suphan (Silver Temple) is impressive and best on Saturday nights (there is also another silver temple on the other side of Wualai Rd.).

Wat Jet Yod is a great temple to explore with some ruins. 

Wat Bupparam is a fascinating temple near Tha Phae Gate on Tha Phae Road. 

Wat Umong is a peaceful forest temple a little southwest of the Old City. 

Wat Suan Dok is a large temple with a Buddhist university, monk chat, and vegetarian restaurant across from Chiang Mai University. 

Wat Doi Suthep is a famous temple on the nearby mountain and very well worth a trip. 

Wat Pha Lat is an exquisite temple on the Monks Trail.

And there are many more for you to serendipitously discover while visiting. 

“Buddhism is the main religion in Thailand, so it’s no wonder that the country is simply teeming with temples.” — Kelly Iverson 

My Favourite Thai Vegetarian Restaurant: 

Chiang Mai is a foodie paradise and there are sooo many great restaurants! 

It varies with mood, though my Favourite overall vegetarian restaurant is the small, off-the-beaten-path Aum Vegetarian, which is one of the oldest vegetarian restaurants in Chiang Mai. And sometimes a random street stall is just the ticket! 

“Chiang Mai is famous for its excellent food, both in restaurants and street stalls.” — Samuel Boomer 

My Favourite Vegan Restaurant:

Vegan Heaven has been around for quite some time and is consistently delicious with both popular and less common Thai dishes. It’s fun to eat hor mok, which is a scrumptious coconut curry served in the coconut it comes from or a pineapple fried rice in a carved-out half pineapple. 

“Nowhere…have I eaten so well, so cheaply, so grandly and with so much joy as in the northern Thai city of Chiang Mai.” — Deepti Kapoor, Chiang Mai food paradise: ‘The best I’ve ever eaten’ 

My Favourite Mixed Restaurants: 

My Favourite mixed restaurants that are veg-friendly are Blue Diamond and Number 9 — both on Moon Muang Soi 9 in the Old City. Both have a great selection of excellent food with many veg options. Blue Diamond is in a garden setting and has a shop, while Number 9 is on the corner inside the moat and is more urban and family-run (and it is open from 9 AM to 9 PM, of course). 

“By eating at locally-owned restaurants, visiting food stands, tasting unique street foods, and strolling through (and sampling from) fresh food markets”, according to Kasey Clark, “you not only get to enjoy new gastronomic experiences, but also to communicate with the locals, learn what they’re proud of (and known for) and take in the area’s vibe…. It’s also better for you. Because it spends less time traveling from point A to point B, local food is fresher, loses fewer nutrients in transit, and sustains less spoilage [and typically has a lower carbon footprint]…. By buying local food when traveling and keeping that money in the area, you’re supporting local farms and producers; enabling employment for farm workers and those in the local food-processing plants and distribution centers; and generally buoying the community’s economy.”

My Favourite Thai-adjacent Restaurant:
Named after the owner’s mother from Shan State in Burma/Myanmar, Payod Shan Vegetarian is a little restaurant on Maneenopparat (just north of the moat) with some of the biggest flavors I have ever had. 

“Chiang Mai truly is a culinary wonderland; a dazzling blend of taste, texture, and history.” — Cita Catellya

My Favourite Cafes:                                                                  

There is no shortage of amazing cafes in Chiang Mai! 

Woo Café & Art Gallery is like being in a living room and there is a gallery upstairs. Much Room Café and Fern Forest Café are spacious with a countryside feel. Jungle De Café is the more natural version of a countryside feel, while Tenyuu is a beautiful Japanese restaurant and café on the base of Doi Suthep with a waterfall in the back. Chom Café has a little rainforest. If you’re looking for great coffee, try Akha Ama and Ristr8to Lab. No. 39 Café has various sitting areas around a pool/lake and is a great place to relax (and sometimes there is live music). 

There are many other lovely cafes where you can sip amongst antiques, fields, gardens, a river, waterfalls, terracotta sculptures, vintage furniture, a French, Finnish, or Japanese scene, and more, so there is no problem finding intriguing places to enjoy. In addition to local coffee, local chocolate and matcha have gotten much more popular. 

“The Chiang Mai coffee culture is one of the best in Asia.” — Daryl and Mindi Hirsch 

My Favourite Juice/Smoothie Shops: 

Khun Kae’s Juice Shop and Mrs. Pa 

Both of them are run by fascinating and friendly women, who make great juices, smoothies, and conversation. Khun Kae’s Juice Shop is a place to sit down and hang out, while Mrs. Pa runs a pushcart at the Chiang Mai Gate Night Market. 

“Thailand grows just about any tropical fruit you have ever heard of, and a lot of fruits you never have, but what this means is you will also find the most delicious (and strangest!) fruit smoothies.” — Tasty Thailand

My Favourite Elephant Sanctuary: 

Elephant Nature Park 

As the biggest and best of them, ENP is such a beautiful and compassionate place founded and run by an amazing woman named Lek Chailert, who deserves a Nobel Peace Prize. There is no riding, bullhooks, chains, coercion, or any other form of animal exploitation or coercion. Besides the 120 magnificent elephants, there is a herd of water buffalo, a cat kingdom (with over 2000 cats!), a dog area, some horses and cows, and a pig called Mr. Moo. The vegan buffet meals are outstanding, bordering on overwhelming in a good way. 

“I have so much love for them. Being able to see people come to the park and fall in love with these animals makes my heart smile.” — Lek Chailert

My Favourite Markets: 

Chiang Mai has plenty of markets. 

Outdoors: Saturday Walking Street Market (on and around Wualai Rd.) and Sunday Walking Street Market (on and around Rajdamnern). The Jing Jai (JJ) weekend market is great for food and music. 

Indoors (and partly outdoors): Warorot/Lamyai markets with the flower market in the back (across from the Ping River). 
All these markets are fun places to visit, shop, eat, and photograph. 

“Thailand markets are one of the most popular ways to shop, with a great range of food, handicrafts, souvenirs, jewelry, clothing, accessories, shoes and sometimes even tech goods available all at discounted prices. Thailand markets are a bustling cultural experience and thrive on local art, craft, and produce.” — Travel Online 

My Favourite Landmark: 

Tha Phae Gate 

As the traditional main entrance to the Old City, it’s a great place to see, walk through, hang out, people watch, listen to musicians, watch performances, shop, take photos, etc., while soaking in the history and culture of the Lanna Kingdom. 

“Tha Phae Gate in Chiang Mai is a popular place for tourists to do selfies.” — Richard Barrow 

My Favourite Festival: 

Loi Krathong/Yi Peng 

During Loi Krathong/Yi Peng (Festival of Lights) (in October or usually November), Thai people and others release floating flowers and candles on waterways and lit lanterns into the air in amazing displays “to wave goodbye to misfortune, wash away sins of the past year, and make wishes for the coming year”, as well as to apologize to and thank the river. 

“Foreigners are welcome to take part in the events and you can even join in the lighting celebration on the streets to light your own candle as you make a wish.” — The Planet D 

“In Northern Thailand the Yi Peng lantern festival takes place on the same dates as Loy Krathong, so head to Chiang Mai and celebrate both.” — Johan Smits 

My Favourite Rooftop Bar: 

Myst (atop of Maya Mall) is great place to relax, have a drink and snack, enjoy, and take in the fantastic panoramic views. 

“Myst Maya Rooftop Bar is a top destination for those looking to enjoy a memorable evening out. Perched atop the Maya Lifestyle Shopping Center, the bar boasts breathtaking views of the city skyline that provide the perfect backdrop for soaking up Chiang Mai's vibrant atmosphere.” — FazWaz 

My Favourite Trekking Activity: 

Bamboo rafting 

It is a rare treat to float down the river as the beautiful rural life goes by... 

“Imagine drifting down a stream of water, lush foliage embracing the shoreline. The raft swerves between rays of sunshine, in and out of pools of shade. Water seeps in through the cracks between the lashed bamboo to keep you cool and observant on the journey. The pace of life mellows out to match the calm heartbeat of the jungle.” — Bon Voyage Travel

My Favourite Mode of Transportation: 

Tuk-tuk 

A tuk-tuk is a 3-wheeled taxi that looks and feels like a motorized toy and makes a sound like its name, so enjoy the fun ride! I also like the songthaew (red truck, or rot dang), a type of shared taxi, because I have occasionally had some amazing meetings in them. 

“Jumping in one of these open-air three-wheeled vehicles is a fun activity in itself, as well as a valuable (and affordable) mode of transport for locals and residents alike!” — Jess Leak 

My Favourite Northern Thai Specialty: 

Khao soi 

Khao soi is a sort of yellow curry soup with veggies (and often meat) with cooked and fried noodles. Each place makes it a bit different, varying in color from yellow to red, but it is typically served with pickled greens, raw purple onion, and lime on the side and is always delicious and satisfying. Taste around for your Favourite one! 

“Meet khao soi, the Thai noodle dish that beat 99 other soup dishes from around the world to win the best soup with a score of 4.9 out of 5 on TasteAtlas, an online food guide featuring reviews as well as recommendations from culinary professionals and critics from around the world.” —Stuti Agarwal 

My Favourite University: 

Chiang Mai University has a huge, beautiful campus with a lake, greenery, dinosaur statues, cafeterias, café, a cool art museum, bookstore, and more! There are free shuttles to take you around. 

“Established in 1964, CMU is the first provincial university in Thailand. Over the years, it has grown and evolved into a leading institution, not only in Thailand but in the Southeast Asian region.” — Rebellion Research 

My Favourite Thai Phrase: 

Sabai sabai 

There is no literal translation of sabai sabai in English because this phrase encapsulates a bunch of variations on the idea of relaxation: happiness, peace, comfort, everything's chill, all’s fine, perhaps akin to Danish hygge, Dutch gezellig, German gemütlich, and Swedish mysa and hänga.  If it’s sabai sabai, it’s all good, so no worries. 

“It is similar to the concept of ‘Gemütlichkeit’ in German, essentially a way to express a feeling of overall comfort or coziness. Essentially, it can be seen as a strong feeling of peacefulness. You could go on to say that ‘sabai sabai’ is a reflection of Thai culture, conveying this particular feeling.” — Connor 

My Favourite Local Hike: 

Monks Trail 

At the end of Suthep Road past Chiang Mai University, hike up the Monks Trail to the extraordinary Wat Pha Lat, a spectacular forest temple. There is also a way to drive there or get driven back. 

“If you’re up for a quick morning adventure, then hiking the Monks Trail Chiang Mai to Wat Pha Lat temple is an incredible way to experience a slice of Chiang Mai’s natural beauty.” — We Seek Travel

My Favourite Garden: 

Rajapruek Botanical Garden 

Outside of the city, Rajapruek Botanical Garden is such a lovely park to walk around, taking in the magnificent flowers, watching the butterflies, getting great photos, and enjoying yourself. 

“Royal Park Rajapruek is a gorgeous and expansive botanical garden.” — GPSmyCity 

My Favourite Activity: 

Thai cooking class 

Learn to cook Thai specialties, have a lot of fun, eat like a beast, and take home a cookbook of what you made as well as great memories. There are vegetarian and vegan ones, though all cooking schools will accommodate these diets. 

“Food and cooking are an integral part of Thai culture, and enjoying traditional Thai food will be a huge bonus on your trip, so why not combine the two? With an authentic Thai cooking class you'll learn about local ingredients and cooking techniques.” — Unforgettable Travel 

My Favourite Craft Factories: 

There are many craft factories nearby, but my Favourites are, in order, paper/umbrellas, lacquerware, and celadon (in the Samkampaeng/Bo Sang area). 

“Each factory along San Kamphaeng Road specializes in a single craft. It is possible to catch the artisans themselves at work, building, weaving, painting, and carving.” — Bon Voyage Thailand 

My Favourite Local Chocolates: 

Siamaya and Clean Chocolate 

Siamaya sources its cacao locally — and is fair trade and sustainable — and then handcrafts bars in distinctively Thai flavors, such as Thai coconut curry and many others. Clean Chocolate is all-vegan, only uses unrefined organic coconut sugar as sweetener, and has bars, truffles, and spreads. 

“Cacao came to Thailand 116 years ago [1907], originally only in the south, from Malaysian farmers who were trading ideas and crops across the border. The trees were very obscure at first. Only decades later in 1952, the government began subsidizing cacao cultivation in the hopes of making it a huge commercial export.” — Max, Dame Cacao 

My Favourite Museums:  

MAIIAM (across from Siam Celadon) 

Chiang Mai University Art Museum (free) 

Both are great places to see Thai contemporary art and get a different and fascinating view of Thai culture. There are also museums for art, folklife, insects, photography, Buddhist relics, coins, the Air Force, dolls, and others. 

“Chiang Mai is home to a bunch of brilliant museums, from the quirky to the historical and everything in between.” — Iona Proebst 

My Favourite Music Venue: 

North Gate Jazz Co-op 

Chiang Mai has a rich live music scene, but I keep going back to the North Gate Jazz Co-op. The open-air North Gate Jazz Co-op is a cool place to hang out and drink or not drink as you listen to music. No pressure, no problems, just good people and good vibes. Thapae East is also nice, as is The Mellowship. 

“Between the multitude of people meeting together, we shared one language in common: the language of music.” — Quint Hubbard 

My Favourite Night Club: 

Zoe in Yellow 

It’s very loud and very flashy with a good mix of locals and tourists. 

“The end-all, be-all of Chiang Mai’s loud techno, sweaty dance pits, and regret. It has everything you need to have a crazy raging night.” — entrust TEFL 

My Favourite Massage: 

Coconut oil 

There are various different types of massage, including Thai traditional massage, but my Favourite is the 2-hour coconut oil massage. Try a few different types of massage and different places to find out your Favourite, while engaging in relaxing research! 

“Thai Massage is an ancient practice used to relieve the stress in the body’s muscles through pressure techniques and stretching.” — Sheree 

My Favourite Real Waterfall: 

Bua Tong 

Nicknamed Sticky Waterfall, it is unlike any other. Although most other waterfalls are very slippery, this one is not, so it can be climbed with bare feet or shoes. And there is a rope to help you. It has many levels and is spectacular at every point. 

“One of the most unique places we’ve ever been to in Thailand is called Bua Tong or the Sticky Waterfalls.” — Chris 

My Favourite Fake Waterfall:

Dantewada Land of Angels Waterfall Park 

Although it’s not natural, the waterfalls, caves, gardens, and art are still beautiful and peaceful for those who don’t want or can’t do actual nature. Also, there’s a nice café. And there are goats and rabbits! 

“One of my most unexpected but Favourite memories in Chiang Mai was visiting the Dantewada Land of Angels Waterfall Park” — Lora Pope 

My Favourite Instagram Photo Location: 

Mon Jodd 

With classic cars, sail boats, flower fields, artistic structures, and other usable props and places to pose, Mon Jodd is a photoshoot paradise! 

“With many classic cars, boats, and fields of flowers, this is an it spot!” — Ashley 

My Favourite Tea Farm: 

Araksa Tea Farm 

Learn about tea from seed to sip, while you take in the magnificent beauty, pick tea leaves, watch the roasting process, and then enjoy your tea with sweet rice cakes. 

“This was a lovely experience both gentle and educational at the same time.” — Singhasam

My Favourite Cacao Farm:

Skugga

Skugga is a beautiful place where one can see and experience cacao from seed to tree to cup and can walk amongst the cacao trees, as well as avocado and banana, enjoying the scenery and experience. There is also a greenhouse where one can see the stages of the chocolate process. And, of course, there is a great café there where you can enjoy hot chocolate and other delectables! There is even a little vintage car museum.  

“Skugga is more than just an Instagram hotspot place.” — Per Sundberg 

My Favourite Sculpture Garden: 

Chiang Mai Erotic Garden 

Run by an affable woman named Katai, the Chiang Mai Erotic Garden is the first erotic garden in South East Asia with provocative pieces of sexually-themed art in a small albeit lovely natural setting. 

“Everything is erotic! Not just the statues, but all the flowers.” — Katai Kamminga

My Favourite Local Fruit (and Soap!): 

Mangosteen 

Called the queen of the fruits with a hard purple rind and soft white interior, mangosteen is sweet, healthy, and wonderful in all sorts of ways, including as an ingredient for locally-made soap. 

“The fruits have a delicious taste and are highly nutritious as well as medicinal.” — Armando Gonzalez Stuart 

My Favourite Zero-Waste Shop: 

Free Bird Cafe 

Free Bird Cafe sells both new and used items of good quality and also serves excellent vegan, gluten-free food and smoothies at this women-run, non-profit organization. All proceeds go to helping Burmese refugees and they also accept donations of just about anything that could be useful or sellable. 

“There is a lot going on at Free Bird Café, and it all comes together efficiently, seamlessly, and with a bounce to its steps.” — Pim Kemasingki 

My Favourite Place to Avoid: 

Tiger Kingdom 

Tiger Kingdom is awesome in the sense that one can get up close and personal with tigers, but it is awful in the sense of what humans must do to those tigers (and their families) to get them to act that way. It is the tiger equivalent to human trafficking (likewise with most elephant, monkey, crocodile, snake, and other animal camps and similar with the Night Safari and zoos). Wildlife tourism, generally, is problematic. Animals should be respected and protected, not used and abused. 

“Every tiger that’s poached and removed from the wild or illegally sourced from a captive facility, such as a tiger farm, to support the illegal wildlife trade drives wild populations closer to extinction.” — World Wildlife Fund 

My Favourite Nearby Cities: 

Chiang Rai and Pai 

Chiang Rai is a city in the Golden Triangle about 3 hours north of Chiang Mai. Famous for its impressive White Temple, it also has a Blue Temple and a Black House, as well as a giant Guan Yin temple and an interesting Hill Tribes museum. Pai is a laidback city a few hours west of Chiang Mai along a windy road with a spectacular canyon, incredible caves, and a cool vibe. 

“Pai is a beautiful mountain village in northern Thailand, famous for its idyllic natural scenery and laid-back bohemian vibe.” — Nick & Hannah 

“Chiang Rai is one of the oldest cities in Thailand.” — Dear Travellure

My Chiang Mai Favourites 

My Favourite Nearby Town: 

About 2 ½ hours south of Chiang Mai, Ban Phra Baht Huay Tom is an ethnic minority Karen town with very friendly people, a beautiful temple with mirrors in the main building, and a handicraft center for silver and textiles. Following the wishes of a beloved monk, the whole town is completely vegetarian, mostly vegan. It is a rare privilege to be in an all-veg jurisdiction and it felt absolutely sublime. 

Luang Pu Khruba Wong, an itinerant Buddhist monk who walked to visit Karen villages across northern Thailand, relayed that “If we hurt animals, then the animals will hurt us, followed with illnesses. If we eat vegetarian foods, we will not be hurting anyone.”

“Phra Bat Huai Tom is another peaceful community area which has a way of life closely linked to Buddhism and the doctrines of the Buddha.” — Village to the World 

My Favourite Thai Dessert: 

Mango sticky rice 

Called khao nio mamuang, cold fresh mango slices are placed with warm sticky rice and sweet coconut milk. There’s nothing else like it! 

“The first thing I do whenever I go to Thailand is seek out the closest restaurant or stall selling mango-and-sticky rice.” — Hanya Yanagihara 

My Chiang Mai Favourites 

My Favourite People: 

Chiang Mai locals 

Interact with local people to experience their kindness and fall in love with Thailand and the Thai people! In 2020, Condé Nast Traveller declared Chiang Mai the “world’s friendliest city” and you will find out why when you are there! 

A “unique mix of travel experiences, where there’s something for everyone, is what makes Chiang Mai — which translates to ‘new city’ — a great getaway.” — Ashwin Rajagopalan 

In the words of Christina Liao, “There’s a reason people fall in love with Chiang Mai.” I certainly did! 

My Chiang Mai Favourites 

Dan Brook 

Dan Brook is Senior Lecturer Emeritus in the Department of Sociology and Interdisciplinary Social Sciences at San Jose State University in California, from where he founded and organises the Hands on Thailand (HoT) program. Dan has free ebooks on Smashwords